Alpamayo
Alpamayo
The 5947 m high Alpamayo is a mountain in the north of Peru's Cordillera Blanca.
The mountain was named after the village of Alpamayo ( Quechua Allpamayu: allpa = earth; mayu = river: earthy river), while its local name is denominated in Ancash Quechua Shuyturahu ( shuytu = thin and long, pyramid; Rahu = snow mountain, glacier). He is considered one of the most beautiful mountains in the world.
Due to its remote and inaccessible location of a regular trapezoid made of ice and snow resembling mountain was late known among climbers in Europe. After three unsuccessful expeditions European ( Austria 1936, Switzerland 1948, France - Belgium 1951) finally took place the first ascent on June 19, 1957. The German roped Günter Hauser, Bernhard chicken, Frieder Knauss and Horst Wiedmann reached the summit via the south ridge.
Today's normal route is the undeveloped until 1975 in the south-west wall Ferrari route. This was named after its first ascent Casimiro Ferrari, which she climbed in the summer of 1975, together with Danilo Borgonovo, Pinuccio Castelnovo, Pino Negri, Sandro Liati and Angelo Zoia. The original Ferrari route runs alongside the now known as Ferrari line route and the alternative route French - Direct. The latter was not the first ascent of French, but why is so named because a French rope team was killed in it.
One of the first ascent ( Günther Hauser ) described after his return, his impression of the Alpamayo with the words:
" A dream mountain rises above the valleys of the northern Cordillera Blanca, how dare him to draw only children who have never seen a mountain. This is the Alpamayo not a dream but reality. From one side you can see him as a well-proportioned pyramid up to share their legs are hung with huge cornices. The Other Face of Alpamayo, the trapezoidal southwest wall is more beautiful: By the interaction of almost vertically down the burning tropical sun at noon and the ascending moist air masses from the jungle, the wall was covered with fine Riffelfirn. Thus, the mountain looks from this side like a white cathedral "