Bobbin lace

Lace making is a handwork technique, are manufactured by means of the clapper ( spindle-shaped, usually made ​​of wood " coil " ) and the yarn wound thereon various peaks.

Basics

The manufacture of hand lace based on a systematic change of twisting - interlacing - Link - entangling filaments in multiple system. There are hand bobbin lace in the following variants: the meter, inserts, doilies, edges, decorative elements, or accessories, in fashion and in the Bildklöppelei.

Basis for the production of any "real peak " is the template, the pricking. The value of a clapper letter lies in the artistic design as well as in the mathematical and geometrical calculation - the design as high art of designing. The lace patterns are in copyright. From the multitude of Handklöppler there are very few who are able to design new patterns and develop. These designs are and have always been a prerequisite for the production of a hand bobbin lace.

History

Bobbin lace arose when we wanted to give the edges of garments a firm and simultaneously decorative edge. With variations of lichens were of loose fringes decorative elements on the clothing of the rich. To simplify the production Presumably then came the idea to make these braids regardless of garments and the first bobbin lace were produced: Flechtspitzen.

The first sources for lace-making are pattern books of the 16th century from Italy, where it is assumed also the origin of the art. The first pure sample book for the clapper technology appeared around 1557 in Venice Le Pompe. From Italy, the technique should be first arrives to Spain or the Spanish Netherlands, and then to France. But even in the Ore Mountains the first bobbin lace are demonstrated in the 16th century. Barbara Uthman, the widow of a mining entrepreneur from Annaberg said to have been instrumental as a publisher in the dissemination of lace in the Erzgebirge. According to lore, it has supplied up to 900 channels with braids WOULD orders.

Since the second half of the 19th century bobbin lace can also be made by bobbin machines. Lace making is now only a rare pastime, which is mainly operated by women. The traditional lace regions in Germany, the Erzgebirge, eastern Lower Saxony and Franconia. A decentralized dissemination of lace done in numerous courses at community colleges in Germany. After the Academy of Fine Arts in Hamburg in 1969 closed its class for embroidery and textile techniques, the Zwickau University the only university in Germany, the clappers in the compartment Textile Art in the School of Applied Arts Schneeberg, still taught.

In Middle Franconia especially the city Abenberg in the district of Roth is known for its lace making. In the past, up to 400 women deserved the same time make a living. Today, the Lace Museum testifies to the castle Abenberg of the clapper art that is taught in a separate lace school today.

Lace making by hand

The clappers are usually mounted in pairs on a lace pillow. When lacemaking the threads are interwoven at least two pair of lace-making by mating and turning the bobbin. Depending on the pattern and lace technique can be several hundred the number of bobbins used. This is usually done using the fixed underneath clapper letter according to a predetermined pattern, but also can be done freely without pattern specification (freehand tips). During the lace-making Bobbin work is fixed with pins on the pillow lace. After the completion of the tip they are pulled out again to remove the work from the lace pillow can. The most commonly used material for bobbin lace linen is because the threads are very tear resistant. It also silk and cotton yarns are used. Jewelry designers also use metal threads of gold, silver or copper for manufacturing of jewelry parts or complete jewelery in lace technique. For the mallets with metal threads, there are special clapper. Depending on the region in which the clapper work is created, using a flat pillow (as in Belgium and France) or rollers ( in Germany ). In the Erzgebirge lying on stands clapper rolls are traditionally used.

Lace making machine

In the 19th century, the first machines were invented that can create textiles in lace technique. These textiles must have a continuous pattern, as it is not yet possible to date to make lace with machine made ​​lace " around the corner".

Whether a tip was made ​​by a machine or a lace maker, the layman can not distinguish. For experienced Klöppler but there are some characteristics that indicate a maschinengeklöppelte tip: A machine can not manufacture round doily or complex patterns, so that only exist borders and edges. It is also not possible to add or remove bobbin. Is the pattern of peak symmetry, the machine works accordingly so that twists and crossings are partly done in the wrong way. Very striking it when errors occur repeatedly at the same point of the pattern.

Clapper types

The distinction between the clapper types can be done in three ways:

• According to samples and used technology or material
• Because of the historical development in Renaissance, Baroque, Classicism and modern tips
• Reference to the clapper regions: Honiton (Great Britain), Tønder (Denmark), Brussels and Bruges (Belgium ), Milan (Italy ), Ore etc.

There are more than 40 different clapper techniques.

Flechtspitze

Epoch: Renaissance, 14th - 16th century

The Flechtspitze is the first free bobbin lace, which developed in the Renaissance. In Europe it was, coming from Italy, known. The Flechtspitze is a very suitable as a decorative element trimming lace hems. She led the transition from education to layout surface wave as a finishing edge. In the chronological order of the top art Flechtspitze be classified according to the Franz education and Knotwork Macramè. The very strict geometric pattern is broken up with the incorporation of Zänkelchen in braider. in the patterning hardly ground strokes are inserted. With floral and figural design the Flechtspitze is rarely used.

Reticella top

Epoch: Renaissance

Geometrically constructed a typical peak of the Renaissance and yet playful. With the form impacts in many figures, the fine art of hand lace apparent. Besides round - recessed in the middle - or semi-circular shape of the triangular tatted impact is on the pattern in the foreground. This open toe is built up in their design, concentrated from the center starting, geometrically.

Ragusaspitze

Epoch: Baroque

It was named after the Ragusaspitze Ragusa in Dalmatia, today's Dubrovnik. Originating it is from the Gothic braiding. The acute forms were retained. The Broad form cloth stitch ribbon in uniform width. Only reverse shocks are working Instead of the usual needle plugging right and left. The perfection is emerging in the acute Eckbildung of Leinenschlagrändchens, the mesh guiding the ribbon, connected to a second one. This requires extreme sensitivity and skill of the largest bobbin lace maker. The Ragusaspitze belongs to the group of the open tops. You designed yourself in abstract symmetrical forms, which are kept very sharp. As a decorative element to the big loop is inserted, which is created by braiding the Ragusanadel.

Gimpenspitze

Epoch: Baroque

It is likely that the Gimpenspitze from Spain was introduced in Europe. Worked one has it in Italy, Belgium and Flanders. It was named the top by the specificity of the incorporation of a gimp ( braided thread, also known as string ). It emphasizes the individual pattern shapes and achieved a plastic highlighting. Design: the gimp is done with cloth stitch and worked in a continuous ribbon. They can be designed as open and closed tip. The special feature in the Baroque style as curved compactness.

Milan top

Epoch: Baroque

The traditional Milanese lace dominated the essence of painting and strives for massive decorative design. It is classified as a first peak with reason and belongs in the classification to the ribbon lace. At the beginning this technique, the strict quadratic splitting of the peaks is displaced. The tendril is the dominant motif and forms in their moving lines create new expressive ornaments. In the design of a high standard is. The pattern is given a great opportunity for development and freedom. Sealing tatted stylized motifs - mainly flowers and tendrils parts - determine the pattern design. The Milanese lace is an expression of the band peak in cloth stitch with or without a power base.

Relief tip ( Venise )

Epoch: Baroque, the "high art" of hand lace

It is probably the most expressive and at the same time complicated lace in their production. The country of origin of this technique is Italy. Both the completed pattern design - a masterpiece in the Lace design - as well as the high demands in the talent of the Klöpplerin justify their reputation as the most precious of all peaks. The climax she had in the epoch of Baroque. Executed in scrupulous precision, ornament adds ornament. The relief tip is an open toe. Your very naturalistic design allows for a large margin between reality and imagination. It always results in a picturesque structure with no clear report files and priorities. The curved shapes lie on the surface. In the background is the elaboration of the plasticity and the shape effect. Work-up of the form shocks and the real trailing spokes reason which causes the connection to the irregular individual parts, is characteristic for this tip.

Valenciennes lace

Epoch: Rococo

The development of this peak can be observed in the Netherlands. After its beginnings in the 16th century, the heyday came in the 18th century. The surveys show from the High Baroque to the Rococo style. The Valenciennesspitze is a very durable and long lasting top despite gauzy linen yarn and its fineness. These tips are worked horizontally with continuous threads as closed tip. The special features are the use of three different meshes reasons can be divided into time in development. Flanders mesh Rose reason in 1650, round or nearly round mesh, the real stitch around 1700 and the square mesh ( clear stitch ) around 1830. In designing the patterns correspond to the Rococo style. Their forms are executed in cloth stitch and enclosed by a turning pair. The Valenciennesspitze is mainly used in the design of a narrow peak marks.

Mechlin lace

Epoch: Rococo

The Mechlin lace is time in their development, starting classify in the era of Baroque and in its perfection in the Rococo era. It dominates to this day the clapper art in Belgium. A typical feature is the enclosure of forms with the Cordonnetfaden. The numerous, very fine ornamental network games will be carried out mainly in Droschel or Tüllgrund. In their work, they is a closed tip. From the beginning to the link requires the classification of implementing the strong thread, the Cordonnetfaden. The patterns are naturalistic, the motives predominantly small flowers, delicate tendrils and garlands ribbons. Determines the pattern of the delicacy of lace.

Brussels Hand Bobbin Lace

Epoch: Rococo, the "Queen of Lace"

The name refers to the place in which the development of this technique mainly took its course. The flowering period ranged from the epoch of baroque to classicism. The characteristic of the Baroque period - heavy and lush abundance - was transformed in the rococo style for easy, graceful and playful from tip, which was retained in classicism. The Brussels lace is hand worked as an open top. The highlighting of the forms, the filling of these achieved in different punches a contrast effect which is very expressive and tip gives a special charm. The design motifs are very varied in width and depth. They range from replicas of nature, ornaments, illustrations to fantasy shapes. The most popular patterns are the arrangements of flower shapes.

Duchesse lace

Epoch: Classicism, the " Princess of the tips "

Belgian origin, classified in the middle of the 18th century. The Duchesse lace as a combination peak represents the clappers in the highest perfection; they united in a special harmony several top techniques of both the clapper and the needle tip. Worked as open toe, it allows for a game with the thread. Different, placed on the application thread sizes and thread types, the change of the fillings of motifs from the breezy half- beat to the delicate cloth stitch, cause shading of the structure. The pattern is classical with an irregular layout. The main motives are quite large, artistically valuable components. The emphasis on the contours with a Cordonnetfaden or silk thread, enclosing with delicate ribbon and the recurring variations of leaf shape polishing the artwork. The basic game is the memory base or the tulle.

Torchon lace

Epoch: Classicism

Torchon French: The French Torchon is in a group of modern lace, in the second half of the 19th century. It developed in France and has its origins in the imitation of the netting. She is working as a closed tip. The screening is done by a square base network in a diagonal design. The new shock is perpendicular in superscript square and forms in addition to the half-and cloth stitch games the main design feature. The basic decorations include leaf-shaped Fresh Beats, spinning and turning points. The designs stand out in a geometrically simple and easy, but very characteristic forms of expression. In applying this tip comes in the piece, inserts or rectangular and square ceiling. Constructing in a round shape is not possible.

Belgian Torchon: She is also a representative of the modern lace and was applied preferably in the second half of the 19th century. It is a closed tip with the new shock as a typical feature of most is perpendicular to superscript or diagonal square of the basic network. The Belgian Torchon is quite simple, clear and sometimes quite rough in the basic design. To obtain the differentiation to the top, the design is complemented with detailed generous embellishments. Here, the nature of geometric shapes and lines remains prevalent and is based on the basic square grid in a diagonal design. Most likely to be seen is the Belgian Torchon at its outer pattern completion - an illustrated subjects - but not always true.

Idria Lace

Epoch: Klassiszismus

Italian Idria: The Idria Lace belongs to the group of modern tips. The technique was developed in the 18th century in the town of Idria and named after her. The feature is a smooth ribbon of broad cloth stitch with one, outside the row of needles entrained turning pair. The Italian Idria is an open toe. The pattern is very abstract. Bands usually only emphasize the horizontal and vertical. As the compound of the bands are mainly webs ( braided braider false ) or simple geometric parts.

Russian Idria: In the 18th century, the Tsar Peter the Great led to the introduction of the lace-making in Russia. Based on the Italian Idriatechnik - geometric pattern - the ribbon form of the Russian Idria designed naturalistic. The combination with folklore determines the folk style that endures to the present day. The focus of the design of the Russian Idria are the motifs of plants, flowers and leaves.

Schneeberger top

Epoch: Modern tip

She is the only one in the Erzgebirge by about 1910 developed technique. The drawing teacher Paul Rudolph on the clapper and Drawing School in Schneeberg was commissioned by publishers of the Ore Mountains, to design new patterns. This should be distinguished by a slightly stronger material, especially faster production and a typical design example. This was achieved with the Schneeberger technology in all requirements. It can be used as an open and a closed tip. In the free design of the continuous ribbon is swinging to naturalistic or stylized structures that achieve a versatile and tasteful pattern and shape in their effect. Despite the stronger leash thread are the Broad peak "light" and " airy " on the pattern design feasible.

Russian top

Epoch: Classicism

The tip to fall in love is worked with only a few pairs. There are many design possibilities with the tape lace, which is made in different regions of Russia and clapper in the regions of Germany. The techniques these tapes tip consists mainly in the use of gimp, color and various kinds of reasons.