Fritz Kasparek

Fritz Kasparek ( born July 3, 1910 in Vienna, † June 6, 1954 at Salcantay, Peru ) was an Austrian mountaineer.

Life

First alpine experience he gained at Peilstein and Gesäuse.

As one of the pioneers difficult winter ascents he succeeded in February 1938 together with Sepp Brunnhuber the first winter ascent of Comici Bring on the north face of the Cima Grande at 20 degrees below zero. It was the first winter ascent of a Lead in the VI. Degree at all. From 21 to 24 July 1938, he climbed through along with Anderlecht Heckmair, Heinrich Harrer and Ludwig Vörg the first of the Eiger North Face.

End of April 1954 Kasparek traveled as Head of the Austrian Andes expedition to Peru. On June 6, the year he came while trying to climb the 6271 meter high Salcantay, killed when a cornice at the summit broke and him and his rope partner, the jointed in Cusco for Expedition Swiss alpinists Anton vases Auer, in a 1500 meters ripped deep abyss.

At Fritz Kasparek is a memorial plaque in the Mountaineers' cemetery John Bach in Gesäuse. In 1968 in Vienna, Danube City ( 22 district ) was named the Kasparekgasse after him.

Mountaineering achievements (excerpt)

  • Civetta, 1933 Northwest wall Comici route second ascent
  • Marmolada, 1933 south pillar fifth commission
  • Ross knoll, 1936 Ross dome edge first winter ascent
  • Laliderer top 1936 north face: Auckenthaler - third ascent route, Schmid -cancer Route sixth commission.
  • Western battlement, 1937 north face fourth commission
  • Small battlement, 1938 Preußriss first winter ascent
  • Eiger, 1938 first ascent of the north face with H. Harrer, A. and L. Heckmair Vörg
  • Hochtor, 1941 north face first winter ascent

Works

  • A climber. One of the conqueror of the Eiger north face tells of his ascents. First Edition. Publishing " The Bergland- book", Salzburg 1939. -: Second edition. The Bergland, Volume 145, ZDB - ID 2033230-0. Publishing " The Bergland- book", Salzburg 1940.
  • From Peilstein the Eiger North Face. Experiences of a mountaineer. Advanced and fashioned revision.. Publishing " The Bergland- book", Salzburg, 1951 ( Previously titled: . A climber One of the conqueror of the Eiger north face tells of his mountain trips).
  • - Erich Waschak ( Foreword ): A Life for the mountains. From Peilstein the Eiger North Face. Extended and re-worked edition, licensed edition. Book Club Danubia, Vienna 1960. (Previously titled: . A climber One of the conqueror of the Eiger north face tells of his ascents and Peilstein From the Eiger north face experiences of a mountaineer. ).
  • From Peilstein the Eiger North Face. Experiences of a mountaineer. Issue for members of the Books Gutenberg. . Chapbook Verlag, Wien, 1960 ( Previously titled: From Peilstein the Eiger north face experiences of a mountaineer and A Life for the mountains Peilstein From the Eiger North Face. . ).
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