Garum

Garum (also: Liquamen ) was the standard spice in ancient Roman cuisine. This seasoning sauce was used for salty and sweet foods, such as the frequency, as nowadays fish sauce used in Asian cooking.

Origin

Garum enjoyed great popularity in Roman cuisine. The origin is suspected either in Greece or Carthage. For a Greek origin speak the written sources. The name derives Garum therefore on Garos from the Greek word Gauros ( Γαύρος ) for the European anchovy ( Engraulis encrasicolus ), which was originally used for the production of garum ( Pliny: [ garum ] olim conficiebatur ex pisce quem Graeci garon vocabant ). But also knew the Phoenicians such sauces. For a North African origin would say that the evidence for production mainly present in the formerly Punic areas of Portugal, Spain and North Africa. In addition, the earliest evidence for Garum are in a time in which these areas were Roman provinces. The earliest mention in Latin is found in Varro in de lingua latina.

Production

Garum was a liquid that it created that was mixed fish such as tuna, European anchovy, eel, mackerel and others including their guts with brine and sometimes for months exposed to the sun in open basins. Here, the fish protein was degraded by enzymes present in the intestines. At constant temperature of about 40 ° C the fermentation is completed in about one week. This mixture was then pressed and filtered multiple times to give a clear, amber liquid. The remaining set has been referred to as allec. During the final product has a delicate, distinctive smell, the odor was considerably during production, so the production of garum were outside the towns. The manufacturing process is described in several ancient sources.

Variations

Garum is used as a generic term for various types of fish pastes in various price ranges, as salsamenta, Liquamen, Muria or Hallex. As exquisite luxury items was about the garum which was made ​​of salted tuna from Byzantium. In contrast, Hallex recorded as a cheap product, by the fact that could serve any kind of fish or that fish waste for its production, which originated in the production of high-quality garum.

For the Romans it was a common spice in general and fine cuisine. In the Roman cookbook De re coquinaria from the 1st century Garum for most recipes is needed. Mixed with wine ( oenogarum ), vinegar ( oxygarum ), pepper ( garum piperatum ), edible oil ( oleogarum ) or water ( hydrogarum ), Garum was used to refine many dishes. In addition Garum was used in medicine as a remedy for many ailments such as dog bites, ulcers, stomach flu and diarrhea.

The mentioned at Apicius variations are as an endorsement of the amphorae used for transporting ( tituli picti ) as good as not occupied. More often be found, however, additions to the purity ( per se or castum ). Other names mentioned ripeness ( flos - " the flower ", rarely vetus - " mature, old " ), quality ( optimum, primum, secundum ), or the fish from which it was produced ( scombri ). Almost a brand product in the modern sense in this case represents the frequently represented in the archaeological material garum Sociorum, probably the nova (now Cartagena on the Spanish Mediterranean coast ) is from the area of Carthage and was sold by a company.

The term liquamen emerged only in the 1st century AD on, and probably later replaced the term Garum. In fish sauce containers from Pompeii still dominates the Garum in a 2:1 ratio. In late ancient sources such as the maximum price edict of Diocletian there is only liquamen, as it is used exclusively in the cookbook of Apicius, the final form was only towards the end of the 4th century.

Allec (also Halles or Allex ) denotes the residual liquid during screening of solids. The description of the fish sauces in According to Pliny should also be made ​​this a luxury item. Probably he was referring to higher-quality varieties of allec. This was namely the tituli picti the amphoras with the quality additives such as provided optimum, less often with additions of sophistication ( eg flos ), as we know from the other fish sauces. Pliny also mentions that the allec Faex ( ejection ) is the garum. Not entirely clear is the term muria, probably originally a brine, which is often quoted in the context of fish sauces, such as in the tituli picti the usual Fischsoßenamphoren.

Trade

The entrepreneur Aulus Umbricius Scaurus is comprehensible from Pompeii as Garumproduzent on a large scale by various sources. His name, the members of his family, slaves or freedmen appear on 31% of all fish sauces container found in Pompeii and Herculaneum. In a large residential building near the Porta Marina, Region VII, 16 ( Ins. Occ. ), Inputs 12-15, mosaics were discovered with fish sauce containers that bear the name of Scaurus. The presumed tomb of the family has been located at the Street of Tombs before the Herculaneum Gate. An inscription mentioned there probably the son of the late A. Umbricius Scaurus, the duumvir as a tomb was awarded by the decurions. On the Garumhändler Scaurus may be associated with a brief mention in the Satyricon of Petronius during the banquet of Trimalchio.

Within the city limits of Pompeii but no plants were found, from which the excavators concluded that they were outside the city limits. Currently, you can visit the excavated Garum manufactories in Baelo Claudia ( Spain) and Lixus (Morocco ). Garum was a major export, which was widely exported in the Roman Empire: How the Roman military camp holders ( District of Recklinghausen ) were found garum amphorae from Spain; Garum from the province of Lusitania in today's Portugal, which was shipped through the port Lacobriga (Lagos ), achieved top prices at the markets in Rome.

Several tituli that were found on amphorae near the Castra Praetoria in Rome, probably use a family that worked in this business. A number of Amphoreninschriften mentions the names of Aulus and C. Atinius. Two inscriptions from Colijnsplaar (municipality Zierikzee, Zeeland ) in the Netherlands call two negotiatores allecarii.

Garum today

If you want to try at home today ancient Roman recipes, can be replaced by high-quality Asian fish sauce garum, if they are similar in production (fish or fish extract content in the ingredients list note ). They are easily available in Asia stores. Vincent Klink has also proposed a rating based on pickled anchovies, dried porcini mushrooms and seaweed sauce as a substitute.

A traditional continuing and refined version of garum is made on the Amalfi coast between Naples and Salerno in southern Italy and is as Colatura ( di alici ) available, which is preferably obtained only from anchovies. Outside the Mezzogiorno availability drops and outside Italy it is just to get through retailers. The addition of other fish species is usually marked with di Cetera, which indeed affects the flavor, but not a fundamental quality criterion. For excitation, acceleration and control the fermentation of Würzlake old, already squeezed anchovies ( anchovies) are added, as is done in a similar way in cheese and yoghurt production.

One of the Garum like Lake forms the historical basis of Worcestershire sauce Lea & Perrins ( since about 1830), who also have other seasonings are added and which can therefore replace the garum or The straining in its present form, if these spices used anyway be ( but this is often the case, or, as in the Caesar Salad is even desirable ). Other than Worcestershire or even Worcestershire sauce called garum products have with ( and fish sauce and the original Worcestershire sauce) often have little in common. These are mostly based on flavored soy products.