Goldwork (embroidery)

As gold embroidery embroidery form is called, can be applied with the by embroidering with gold threads ornaments on a textile backing. It is mainly used in the manufacture of trimmings and vestments liturgical vestments.

The gold embroidery is next to the beadwork, the most precious stick form. She is also the artistic and technically demanding, since it places high demands on the skill and training of the sticker. Beside the needle painting

The gold embroidery is divided into four basic techniques:

  • The application work or Aufheftarbeit,
  • The running with gold bouillon Kantillenstickerei,
  • The blasting and
  • The lancing work.

In the dock work are spun thread and cord, often used to outline an area- filling pattern, individually or exactly placed next to each other überstochen with overlay stitching and reinforced. The ends of the cords are pulled through the ground fabric.

When Kantillenstickerei the Kantille is threaded onto the working thread and sewed the ground, often so that a relief is formed on an insert. The Kantille comes to lie only on the top of the back Aufnähfaden happens.

When blasting a gold or silver thread is passed back and forth over a base that is firmly attached to the edge of the pad by one at the back reciprocating thread. Blasting is used mainly for embroidery in dress uniforms (such as the diplomatic service ) and elaborate costume parts.

Finally, during the lancing operation of the gold thread runs on both the top and at the bottom of the carrier, so that the pattern appears on both sides.

Often, the gold embroidery is also decorated with sequins, gems, pearls, glass beads or metal foils.

Another technique is the gold embroidery Or Nue ( shaded gold). In this form of the gold drive thread is attached with silk thread to the support material. The difference in the distance between the silk threads ensures that the gold thread is more or less covered. This results in a light - and - shadow - play between color and gold is produced.

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