Kanzashi

Kanzashi (Japanese簪) is a hair ornament that is worn in the traditional Japanese hairstyle for women.

Kanzashi are made ​​from a variety of materials such as lacquered wood, gold plated and silver plated metal, gold, tortoiseshell, silk, and, more recently, plastic. Early bakelite kanzashi are highly sought after.

There are different ways to wear them. In a Geisha both the material and the supporting way indicates their status. Maiko ( trainee geisha ) wear more and more elaborate kanzashi than older geisha, where for each hairstyle Kanzashi must be plugged into a certain pattern. They should have served partly in an emergency for self-defense.

Origin

The word probably comes from kamizashi kanzashi (髪 刺), which means "hairpin". Its origin can be traced to the Jōmon period, when people thin rods inserted into the hair to counteract curses; these were later used generally as a lucky charm.

In the Heian period (8th -12th century), the Taregami Hairstyles prevailed in which the hair was worn long and straight, so hair ornaments fell into disuse. In the Azuchi - Momoyama period and early Edo period (late 17th century 16./Anfang ) the face of concealing garments like hats were forbidden so that back hair as started to enforce headdress. In the aristocratic society developed in the middle of the Edo period for the women elaborate hairstyles, like the Nihongami style, and craftsmen produced equally elaborate hair ornaments.

Nowadays, kanzashi are used almost exclusively by brides or when special emphasis will be placed on tradition, as maiko, geisha in the Japanese tea ceremony and Ikebana, formerly at Tayu / Oiran and yūjo. Among young women, however, there is also a trend for the revival of Kanzashi, which should exude a certain elegance.

Species

There are several basic kanzashi styles and complex flowers and seasonal arrangements.

• Mimikaki kanzashi (耳かき 簪) comes from ear swabs ( mimikaki ) from, ie a rod that is bent in a hook shape at one end, with which the ear wax has been scratched. The simplest form they were also worn by the general population.
• Tama kanzashi (玉簪, " ball - Kanzashi " ) are sticks with a ball made of coral or jade at one end.
• Hirauchi kanzashi (平 打(ち)簪, "flat felled Kanzashi " ) are rods with a flat and round decoration.
• Matsuba kanzashi (松叶 簪) are forked sticks that mimic converge towards the end again, and so the shape of a pine cone ( matsuba ).
• Birabira kanzashi (びらびら 簪) or Birakan (ビラカン) are associated with the body jewelry metal strips so that they move independently and strum ( Birabira ). Often the body jewelry has a fan shape (扇型, Ogi - gata ).
• Hana kanzashi (花 簪), "Flower Kanzashi " ) are imitated silk flower. For details, see Flower Kanzashi section.

• Kogai (笄) are rods of different materials such as metal, tortoiseshell or ceramic, which were originally used as sword actually jewelry. They are often sold in a set with Kushi.
• Kushi (栉) are rounded combs made ​​of tortoiseshell or lacquered wood, is incorporated into the common mother of pearl or gold leaf. They are plugged into the Dutt ( mage ). The comb back is often very long in order to leave enough space for the design. Hanagushi (flower combs ) are combs, where silk pieces are glued to a wooden comb.

Golden Hirauchi kanzashi

Birabira kanzashi in Ogi - form

Kogai and Kushi painted wood

Flower Kanzashi

Flower Kanzashi are the long, fluttering flowers of Maiko. They are made by artisans from silk squares with a known good Tsumami technology. Each square is multiply folded with the aid of pincers and cut into a single bloom. Then they are either attached to a metal support to make whole flowers, or attached to silk threads to a flower necklace. Frequently, butterflies and birds are made. Additional details such as stamens are shaped by Mizuhiki (水 引). There is a strong, thin string of Japanese paper is used, which is painted decorative.

Geisha wear depending on the month or other holidays Flower Kanzashi. During the summer months of June to September, white or silver, and during the winter months from October to May tortoiseshell and coral used.

Seasons - Kanzashi

Determine the seasons, which will be borne Kanzashi, especially Flower Kanzashi:

• January: January kanzashi differs from year to year, but usually have an auspicious new year theme. Popular is Shochikubai, a combination of pine ( matsu, sino japanese: shō ), bamboo (take, sino japanese: chiku ) and Ume Blossoms ( sino japanese: bai, green, red and white), which are also used in New Year celebrations.
• February: Usually hanging pink or occasionally red Ume blossoms are used, which are everywhere to be seen in this season in Japan. They represent young love, and the dawn of spring. Another, less -used theme are windmills.
• March: Kanzashi are hanging yellow and white rape blossoms ( nanohana ) and butterflies, as well as peach blossoms ( momo ), narcissi ( Suisen ) and peonies ( botan, Paeonia suffruticosa ).
• April: Kanzashi are hanging pink cherry blossom ( sakura ) mixed with butterflies and Bonbori - lanterns that are available for the summer dawn. Viewing the Cherry Blossoms ( Hanami ) at this time is the cultural event in Japan. Even single silver or sometimes gold butterfly kanzashi from Mizuhiki threads are usually used.
• May: Kanzashi are hanging purple Japanese Wisterien ( fuji ) and irises ( ayame, Iris sanguinea ), usually a blue variety. Small silver butterflies also appear as an extra.
• June: Kanzashi are hanging green willow leaves ( yanagi ) with splendor cloves ( nadeshiko ) or ( more rarely) garden hydrangea ( ajisai ). The willow is traditionally used for the geisha. Since June is the rainy season in Japan, the pasture can be used as a water- loving tree and the garden hydrangeas because of her watery blue.
• July: Kanzashi are subjects. Usually the round uchiwa be used but occasionally folding dancing fans. The subjects relate to the taking place at this time Gion Matsuri. During this major event in the geisha district of Gion in Kyoto hundreds of traditional dances are performed by geisha, in which subjects are an essential part. The fan is the feast differ accordingly from year to year. Topics include dragonflies and lines representing swirling water. Furthermore, fireworks kanzashi and Tsuyushiba ( dewdrops on grass ) were used.
• August: The Kanzashi are Prunkwinden ( asagao, Ipomoea nil ) or miscanthus. The miscanthus is arranged in a star -like manner. Senior maiko wear white silver and younger Maiko Pink or Red
• September: Kanzashi is the balloon flower ( Kikyo ), which are traditionally purples for the fall. Often it is with other autumn flowers such as the Hagi - shrub ( hagi ), gold valerian ( ominaeshi, Patrinia scabiosifolia ), chrysanthemum ( kiku ), Eupatorium ( fujibakama, Eupatorium fortunei ), kudzu ( kuzu ) or splendor cloves ( nadeshiko ) combined.
• October: Kanzashi is the chrysanthemum ( kiku ). She is not only a very popular flower in Japan, but also the symbol of the imperial family. The chrysanthemums are used normally red and white, as this combination is the high fall.
• November: Kanzashi are hanging autumn leaves: either a normal yellow leaf or a red maple leaf. The look of the maple is the autumn equivalent of the cherry blossom viewing. Furthermore, even ginkgo and sweetgum leaves are used.
• December: Mochi are this time of year often made, which are to represent white flowers, and decorated the trees with it. Kanzashi with Mochibana ( Mochi Blossom ) to bring good luck. For kanzashi also include two Maneki (tiny, empty signs). The Maiko visit a Kabuki theater ( traditionally the Minamiza in Kyoto ) and ask two of their favorite Kabukischauspieler to describe them with their Kabuki stage name. Some December kanzashi also include bamboo leaves.
• New Year: At this time wearing all maiko and geisha caseless rice ears on the right side. These kanzashi also show eyeless white doves. The maiko and geisha painting from one eye and ask somebody else they like, for the other eye.

Novels

• Mineko Iwasaki: The True Story of the Geisha; ISBN 978-3-548-26186-7; 2004
• Kiharu Nakamura: Memoirs of a Geisha; ISBN 3-404-12954-7; 1999