Khan Tengri
North view of the Khan Tengri
Overview map Inylchek - area with Khan Tengribdep2
The Khan Tengri (Mongolian, " Khan of the sky " or " heaven rulers "; derived from altmongolisch: Khaghan - Tengri; Turkish: Tanri Han), is a 7010 m high mountain in the Tian- Shan Mountains in Central Asia. At the culmination of the borders of Kazakhstan, whose highest peak is he, Kyrgyzstan and China meet.
Geography
The characteristic pyramidal Khan Tengri is the second highest mountain in the Tian Shan to the some 20 kilometers south 7439 m high Dschengisch Tschokusu. It is the northernmost Seven thousand of the earth. Despite its enormous height it is not on the main ridge of the Tian Shan, but in the Tengri - Tau, a descending from east to west Gratast that divides the Inylchek glacier into two arms.
History
1856 Mountain by Russian geographers and biologists Pyotr Semyonov was identified and held by him for the highest peak in the Tian Shan. Only later was it recognized the Dschengisch Tschokusu as the highest peak of the range.
Access to Khan Tengri was already at the beginning of the 20th century found by the German geographer and mountaineer Gottfried Merzbacher, who came first to the later Merzbacher lake called great Ice Lake, who made an ascent on the northern Gletscherast of Inylchek glacier impossible. Therefore, he turned to its southern basin and could penetrate here in the immediate vicinity of him as a " ruler of the Tian -Shan " titled mountain. Merzbacher determined the height of the mountain at 7200 m.
1931 succeeded the Ukrainian climbers Mikhail Timofejewitsch Pogrebetzki the first ascent together with Boris Tyurin and living in the Soviet Union Austrian Franz Clean. Your route from Southern Inylchek Glacier on the west flank is still regarded as the simplest and provides the normal route represents the second ascent was made in August 1936 by a group from the Kazakhstan Alma Ata. The third ascent was held by Vitaly and Yevgeny Mikhailovich Abalakow and Leonid Gutman, Mikhail Dadiomow and Swiss Lorenz Saladin in September 1936.
Known routes on the mountain, in addition to the normal route of the aesthetically beautiful curving southwest ridge ( " Serp " or " sickle "), and the east ridge and the south wall. The most difficult run are on the nearly 3,000 -meter-high north wall. In August 2005, Pavel Shabalin and Ilyas Tuchwatulin was the first time to climb through the wall in the two-man alpine style.
Could be unequivocally established only in recent years that the peak exceeds the 7000 - m limit.
2000 defeated the Kazakh climber Denis Urubko the Khan Tengri base camp (4000 m) to the summit ( 7010 m) in just 7 hours 40 minutes.
The mountain is one of five lying on the territory of the former USSR seven thousand meters peaks. The snow leopard Medal is awarded to the climbers who have conquered all five summits.
On 26 August 1999, the President of Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan and the People's Republic of China signed a border agreement, which regulates the historically unclear demarcation of the two Central Asian countries with China final. It was decided to place the point where the borders of three countries, on the summit of Khan Tengri.