Marcus Schmuck

Marcus Schmuck ( born April 18, 1925 in Maria Alm, † August 21 2005 in Salzburg ) was an Austrian mountaineer and leader of the Austrian Karakoram Expedition, the first ascent of the 8051 meter Broad Peak in the June 9, 1957 Pakistan today succeeded.

Life

Marcus Schmuck has been known by numerous first ascents of the highest mountains in the world. He has conducted 74 expeditions in 56 years; even at the age of eighty, he was still active alpinist.

The Austrian Karakoram Expedition deserves particular attention, therefore, because with the Broad Peak ever an eight-thousanders in the Western Alps style was first climbed for the only time - without oxygen, without Sherpas and without base camp supplies. All participants, Fritz Winter plates, Hermann Buhl, Kurt Diem Berger and expedition leader Marcus Schmuck reached on the same day the summit. Ten days later succeeded jewelry and winter dish the first ascent of Skil Brum adjacent ( 7410 m) within 53 hours in pure alpine style.

Marcus Schmuck used until his death, his wife lying in a vegetative state. He died at his home in Salzburg a heart attack.

First ascents of Marcus jewelry

  • Northern head Mandl, SW wall, V (1946 )
  • Wildalmkirchl, South intersection, V ( 1948)
  • Meat Bank, direct Ostkamin ( " jewelry fireplace " ), VI (1949 )
  • Sommerstein, west wall, first winter ascent
  • Birnhorn, south wall, first winter ascent (1953 )
  • Snökuppelen, North Wall, IV (1955 )
  • Falkenstein, ridge, III
  • Westbyfijell, south wall, and III ridge, II
  • Petit Dru, west wall, 4th commission: Record time 1.5 days (1956 )
  • Bischofsmutze direct north wall, VI
  • Broad Peak 8051 m on 9 June (1957 )
  • Skil Brum 7410 m on 19 June (1957 )
  • Hoggar Denachnet 2690 m, East Ridge (1959 )
  • Koh i Sayoz 6920 m ( 1963)
  • Koh i Shogordok 6855 m
  • Darban Zom 7220 m ( 1965)
  • Wildalmkirchl, Südverschneidung
  • Muztagata 7546 m, 3rd ascent, new route (1982 )
Mountaineering Sherpa people Fritz Wintersteller Fleischbank (Kaiser)
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