Raising card

Scratching, also called carding, serve the roughening of woven fabrics of wool and cotton, especially in the cloth making. There is a final finishing process in textile industry, through which the goods obtains a softer feel and a greater heat insulation.

Since about the beginning of the 20th century, they consist of wire hooks that are mounted on leather straps. Before and z.T. even today (eg in the company Lodenwalker ) the fruit stands of Weber thistle were used. Because of this use, the so-called fuller's teasel ( carding thistle, thistle Weber ) was the guild signs draper.

Thus, the fabric is not torn during roughening, but receives only a fluffy texture, either the Rauherkratze ( Kardierbürste ) by hand rolled over the fabric or the fabric pulled through rotating scratching.

History

The imports in Aachen trade with Flanders cloths carried there also the cloth and needle manufacture. Since the 17th century came a second metal product, namely scratching add. Previously, numerous fruit stalls of the card thistle were longitudinally pierced, and an axle rotating behind and next to each other mounted on a device that has been conducted on the wool fabric, with portions of the threads of which are plucked by the thorn -shaped, but elastic peaks of the dried fruit stand and form a pile. After some use, the tips of the spines are worn and the seed heads need to be replaced. The natural thorns were gradually replaced by a wire made ​​of brass, iron and steel. For the quality of scratching the Nachrichtung and razing of the carding teeth made ​​in the finish. This was the technical work of Reguleure. The activity in the grinding was fatal until the introduction of a dust extraction system. The leather straps were predominantly made ​​by tanneries in Belgium. Ambrose Dubusc 's machine was the beginning of production mechanization dar. beginning of the 19th century developed Johann Uhle in Aachen a scratching typesetting machine which automated the manual use of the metal wires. The production of the card wires in the 19th century happened in the English style.

The needle- tipped leather band were scratching until the 20th century, a special product of the Aachen metal industry. 1912 existed in Aachen seven scratching factories. The oldest Aachen scratching manufactory was the company operating in the farm Wylre'schen Heusch family: August Heusch & Sons, the last, Eduard Schwartz GmbH, closed at the end of the 1980s. 1989 was the item description: "Rough band, 22.5 mm wide, circular band in 3-fold fabric with foam rubber. "

The longest of these companies was the Aachen scratching Cassalette factory, which was founded in 1822 by Peter Joseph Cassalette and remained about three generations of family ownership. The former palace of the family, the villa Cassalette, today testifies to the success of this industry.

Scratching gigs

Following the same principle but are planned for later processing whole fabric, was developed in 1886 in Saxony, among others, by the company Gematex from Aue a universal raising machine, which was equipped with 24 rotating raising rollers. This invention forms the basis of all currently existing drum raising machines. Under " Tambour " are elongated rollers to understand that rotate about its longitudinal axis. Particularly successful marketed the improved variant, the strapless ball-bearing napper machine. This scratching gigs (English cloth -raising machine ) served as textile finishing machine for roughening the surface of a continuous fabric web by means of scratch rolls, which, however, were now covered with brush instead of using needles. To avoid clogging of the scraper rollers having fiber groups, they were continuously cleaned with the cleaning rolls.

List napped fabric types

• Fustian
• Beaver
• Flannel
• Moleskin ( English Leather)
• Molton
• Velveton