Redpoint (climbing)
The conditions are denoted by committing style outdoor climbing under which a climbing route is committed.
- 3.1 Pink Point
- 3.2 a f
- 3.3 Hangdogging
- 3.4 Rotkreis
- 3.5 Red Cross
- 3.6 Team Free (style )
- 3.7 Solo
- 4.1 Clean
- 4.2 Free Solo
- 4.3 Deep Water Solo
- 4.4 Freebase
Need to distinguish different styles
In principle, it is up to you to decide the conditions under which he refers to a route for itself as managed or climbed. However, once the services of various climbers are to be compared, a distinction in different climbing styles is necessary, mainly because in some cases significantly vary the psychological, but also the physical demands and the demands on the motor function of the different styles from each other.
In general, a route is considered to be climbed, if it was committed in the red dot or a more difficult style. It has therefore become customary to start from a RP ascent, if not explicitly committing other style is specified. However, this practice always leads to misunderstandings, as especially newbies who are not familiar with the differences in the styles and types of backups tend to indicate an offense committed in a lower-rated style route without specifying the style rather than climbed.
Common climbing styles
The presented styles are known worldwide and inspections in these styles are commonly accepted as full inspections.
The designations On Sight and Flash can be found in the same meaning also in bouldering. A commission after several attempts, as it would to a RP ascent is, there unspecified, since the conditions imposed by Rotpunkt bouldering already satisfy the conditions of free climbing.
Rotpunkt
The term originally referred to redpoint the free climbing through a well-known climbers climbing route in lead climbing in a train, the safety chain is not loaded and all intermediate backups themselves are attached. Today also hatches of climbers are called red dot if the DC fuses are already hooked. This was the original definition of Kurt Albert also allowed but controversial. In contrast, a clear distinction at Clean - commission between Pink Point and Red Dot.
It is important here especially the non- loading of the safety chain, that is, the route must not fall, resting in the rope or pulling up on hooks in a train be increased. The attachment of intermediate anchors may vary difficult depending on the route: with routes that are fully equipped with bolts, are only to attach quickdraws, while routes that need to be hedged partially or completely yourself, even the laying of slips and other mobile security means necessary is. The climber must climb before the RP ascent as often in the route. A route with several lengths of rope is only valid for a rock climber climbing a red dot when it is laid up all cable lengths. Want in a multi-pitch route both climbers roped commit a red dot the route, so they have to climb the route twice, each climber must extend own any cable length once. The English term for red dot is Redpoint.
As a first ascent free climbing route is a person who rises through this the first red dot. Similarly, the difficulty rating of a route refers to the red-dot style.
The term was coined by Kurt Rotpunkt Albert, the old routes that had hitherto been only a technical climb, marked with a red dot at the start, when he was succeeded a free ascent. The idea of free climbing looked Kurt Albert in 1974 during a visit to the local climbing scene from the Elbe Sandstone Mountains. In the U.S., was climbed in this style that the German Fritz Wiessner Americans had brought before the 2nd World War from Saxony in the United States. Kurt Albert's opinion, the laying of the fuse ( quickdraw or clamping wedges, etc.) is not necessary for a redpoint, since it only inhibits the climbing river. In particular routes of the upper levels are always " gerotpunktet " with hinged Expressen.
Flash
Flash refers to the RP ascent of the climber unknown route in the first experiment, where the climbers are information about the route available that go beyond commonly known facts such as name, difficulty, height and the like.
" In the first trial " means that the climber may be never climbed the route, but the flash he has information about the route, such as a good catch positions or positions for mounting of fuses. He can, among other things by watching other climbers in the route, get abseiling down the route or " announcements " of certain features by other climbers ("Beta ").
On Sight
As On Sight, on-sight or Onsight (English " on sight " ) a commission of an unknown route in the first attempt is called, where the climber besides the well- known facts has no further information about the route, in particular, still no other climbers has watched in the route. Originally, a commission only as " on-sight " when all the fuses were placed from the climbing position during the commission. Nowadays it is common, especially on difficult routes to use fix left in the wall loops.
The climber must inspect the route prior to the experiment only from the ground for this. On Sight is therefore the most difficult of the previously mentioned styles, since a good grasp of possible movements and / or high strength endurance are needed to master even places where you have not found or seen the optimum movement.
Usually climbing climbing competitions at the on-sight mode. Here, the athletes have the opportunity to examine the manageable route to the start of the race for a few minutes from the ground. However, participants may not see each other while climbing, as the later -starting athletes thus have an advantage.
Less common climbing styles
In addition to the above three styles are some more that are generally not counted as full-fledged commission.
Pink Point
In the Pink Point is in contrast to the red dot climbed with already installed belays. However, it is now hardly distinguish between Pink Point and Red Dot. Especially in higher difficulty levels is mainly climbed with already hinged Expressen.
A f
In an a - f - commission (a. f: all free or all free ) may be rested on the securing points. After the suspension has to be climbed from the last position on climbing, which held the climber before he rested on the hook. a f is mainly in the Elbe Sandstone Mountains in use and recognized by rules. In the other climbing areas, it is known as a historical commission of style, but is not recognized as a commission, but used exclusively for the preparation for the later perpetration in a recognized style.
Hangdogging
When Hangdogging is on the load of the safety chain (which may even be a crash ) climbed from the point further, where you are at. This type is to climb like the " Ausbouldern " of routes, that is to try out different possible motion sequences used.
Rotkreis
A Rotkreis ascent (in the U.S. also yo- yo - ing period) is the commission of a route in lead climbing, where in a fall to last stand, No Hands rest ( point at which you can stand without using their hands) or is discharged to the ground and the route / cable length is again climbed from the beginning, but the safety rope remains in the previously suspended between backups. This coming from the U.S. style has been used in Europe, especially in the 1970s and 80s, when the American climbers were leaders in free climbing.
Red Cross
At the Red Cross a route in toprope or follow ' is increased. Red Cross is now no recognized climbing style more, the term is rarely used.
Team Free (style )
In routes with several lengths of rope, so-called Team Free (style ) inspections possible. Here, one of the roped party members increases before a rope length, while the other by any means ( technical climbing or climbing clamps are not uncommon here ) nachsteigt. The role of the lead climber can change, so that members of the climbing team who made it were a common RP ascent at the end.
Solo
In solo climbs the route alone is carried out with self- assurance. This style was committing a very common variant commission especially in the Alps. Outstanding representatives were Hermann Buhl, Walter Bonatti and Reinhold Messner.
In addition, aggravating circumstances
The following terms can be added to the above commission of styles to express that a route under the appropriate conditions was committed.
Clean
When clean- Climbing (English also " Trad " ), a commission of aggravated additionally that all savepoints from mobile securing means ( Chocks, Friends and similar ) are in place and removed after the climbing. The addition Clean can be added to any of the above climbing styles, to indicate that the commission has purely been in mobile security agents, so it can for example also (albeit rarely) carried a red dot or af - committing " Clean".
Clean places additional demands on the climber, as the attachment of portable securing devices may take more time and more power consuming than the simple mount a quickdraw into a bolts. In any case, it requires experience to recognize them (so-called " placements" ), in which the securing means may be used wisely, and trust in the self-set fuses.
Free Solo
As a free solo climbing a route is called without a backup. An error would lead to a crash and serious injury or death. This can of course find only the climbing styles application that do not load the backup chain, since in free solo no backup is available, so Red Dot, Flash and On Sight.
Usually found at the Free Solo the red dot style application, flash and on-sight inspections at its performance limits are extremely risky and are carried out by very few climbers.
Deep Water Solo
Climbing without a fuse over deep water (eg on cliffs ) is called deep water soloing or Psicobloc.
Freebase
One of Dean Potter for the first time designated, combined climbing style. This form of commission corresponds to the climbing style free solo, with the difference that the climber wearing a parachute with him, which he can use in the event of a fall.