Teufelshorn (Glockner Group)

Grossglockner ( left), Glocknerwand (right), in the middle Glockner Horn and Devil Horn

The Devil's Horn is a 3677 meters according to the literature, according to the Austrian Federal Office of Metrology and Surveying but 3680 meters high mountain peak in the Glockner Group in the Central Alps in the middle part of the Hohe Tauern. It is located on the northwest of the neighboring Grossglockner on the border between the Austrian provinces of Tyrol ( Tyrol ) and Carinthia runs. The Devil's Horn is a about 30 meters high, outstanding from the massive, tower-like pointed summit, which interacts with the adjacent, similar-looking 3,680 meters high Grossglockner horn, like a twin tip. Was first climbed the devil horn on August 8, 1884 by Moriz von Kuffner, led by Christian Ranggetiner and E. Rubesoier. The 3680 meter high Glockner Horn, however, was defeated already on 29 August 1879 the mountaineers Gustav Groeger and Christian Ranggetiner.

Environment

Devil Horn and Horn Glockner are components flanking the middle Glockner ridge, and in the northeast and southwest by vast glaciers. In the northeast, the Glocknerkees, which is part of the Pasterze, the largest glacier territory of Austria covers. In the southwest lies the Teischnitzkees bounded by the Luisengrat, the southern continuation of the leading on the Grossglockner Stüdlgrats. Adjacent mountain is in the north- west, separated by the situated on 3596 meters above sea level Lower Glocknerscharte that Glocknerwand with their seven to 3722 meters high Gipfelgrattürmen. To the southeast lies the Grossglockner, the dominant main peak in the Glockner group. Next major settlements are in the southwest, the remote in 9 kilometers as the crow large village in the Tyrolean Kals Valley and 12 km west Winkl located in Heiligenblut.

Points, crossings and routes

The two horns are accessible only as high tour with suitable equipment and glacier experience. As the bases Stüdlhütte serve on 2802 meters above sea level, or which is situated on 3260 meters above sea level, on the northern edge of the Glocknerkees, below the Glocknerwand Kamps Glockner bivouac. The first climber rose from the south on the Grögerrinne to Glockner Horn and the south-east ridge up to the devil horn. The access to the horns is done even today by the Lower Glocknerscharte or Grögerschneide ( 3660 m) in the southeast. The summit can only be climbed. Difficult climbing routes are committed since 1933, there are partly combined tours (rock / ice) in the north wall of the Devil Horns and the northwest ramp of the Glockner horn. They have difficulties to the difficulty UIAA V, at a Eisneigung to 80 °.

Sources and maps

  • Willi End: Alpine Club leaders Glocknergruppe, Bergverlag Rother, Munich 2003, ISBN 3-7633-1266-8
  • Alpine Club map 1:25,000, sheet 40, Glocknergruppe
First ascent Pasterze Glacier As the crow flies Wilderness hut
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