Trafoier Eiswand

Trafoier ice wall with circus addition

The Trafoier ice wall, (Italian: Cima di Trafoi ), originally called Trafoierspitze, is a 3565 meter high mountain in the crystal comb, a line extending from the Stelvio Pass to the Ortler mountain range of western Ortler group, a mountain range of the Southern Eastern Alps. The ice wall is exactly on the border between the Italian provinces of South Tyrol and Sondrio. The summit of Trafoier ice wall is connected to the eastern Thurwieserspitze by the nearly one kilometer long Bäckmanngrat, named after the naturalist Peter Burger and State Councillor Carl Bäckman. The mountain is a regular in shape appearing ice peaks and has a 400 meters high and at times inclined to 80 °, sloping to the north wall of ice. Was first climbed the ice wall Trafoier on 8 July 1872 by the Hungarian naturalist Moritz von Dechy and the mountain guides and Alois Johann Pinggera from Solda on the south wall. Today is the exceeded according to the literature formerly beautiful ice peaks usually in the context of a tightrope walk over to Thurwieserspitze and Grand Eiskogel. Its name from the ice wall of Julius Payer, a native of Bohemia Polar and Alpine researchers.

Geology

  • See Monte Zebrù

Location

The Trafoier ice wall is surrounded to the north, east and west by glaciers. At the foot of the north wall, the actual " wall of ice ", the column- rich circus addition ( Vedretta del Circo ), the accumulation area to the south-east of the nasal horn Ferner ( Vedretta del Naso ) is heard. In the east, the Zebrùferner extends ( Vedretta dello Zebrù ) and on the west flank of the Trafoier addition ( Vedretta di Trafoi ), as well as the more southerly natural Glacier Vedretta di Campo Trafoier the ice wall. Adjacent peaks are in the course of Bäckmanngrats the east, the 3652 meter high Thurwieserspitze and beyond the Zebrùferners the Monte Zebrù with a height of 3735 meters. North-east, separated by the Thurwieserjoch, on 3480 meters above sea level, are the Large and Small Eiskogel ( Grande / Piccolo Cono di Ghiaccio ). In the course of the west ridge follow Big and Small Schneeglocke ( Grande / Piccola Cima di Campana ) and, beyond the Trafoier yoke ( Passo di Trafoi, 3309 m), which here branches off to the north chain of three Madatschspitzen. The Trafoier ice wall forms the southern end of the valley Trafoier. The village Trafoi in Gomagoi in Trafoi is located approximately six kilometers in a straight line in a northerly direction, the Stelvio Pass is good 6 km north west direction.

Bases and Ascension

From Déchys way in 1872 led by the BAITE del Pastore, an Alpe in Zebrùtal at 2167 meters above sea level in the south of Trafoier ice wall, from north to today, due to global warming no longer exists Vedretta dei Camosci until shortly before the Passo dei Camosci alto, then over a snow slope in a firngefüllte until 50 ° inclined trough and in moderately severe climbing in today's difficulty UIAA II to the west ridge and on to the summit. The Pinggeras and Dechy took almost four hours for the tour with a difference in altitude of 1397 meters. Today's normal route is easier than the route of Erstgesteiger, but was committed until 1898. As a base for this located to the west Livriohütte used on 3174 meters altitude above the ski resort of Passo dello Stelvio. The route is a high tour and requires appropriate equipment and glacier experience. From the hut the trail leads East over the Madatschferner to Tuckettjoch at 3354 meters, then on to the yoke below the big snow bell and on the west ridge to the ice wall in moderately difficult climbing in the UIAA grade II to the summit. Walking time is, according to the literature, depending on Wecht conditions, about four hours.

Sources and maps

  • Peter Holl: Alpine Club leaders Ortler Alps, 9th edition, Munich 2003, ISBN 3-7633-1313-3
  • Casa Editrice Tabacco, Tavagnacco: Carta topografica 1:25,000, sheet 08, Ortles-Cevedale/Ortlergebiet
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