Action Directe (climb)

The Action Directe on Waldkopf in Krottenseer forest in the Franconian Jura was first climbed by Wolfgang Güllich September 14th, 1991 and was the first climbing route in the UIAA difficulty XI world. It was drilled by Milan Sykora. Since many of the world's best climbers failed her, she is considered today as the benchmark for the French Difficulty 9a ( UIAA XI). The route is about 15 meters long and consists of 11 or 12 heavy trains that start with a characteristic jump from a Einfingerloch in a sharp two-finger hole.

The name refers to the French terrorist group Action Directe, thus the " attacks " on the fingers - especially on the tendons and ligaments ring - while climbing the route is alluded to. Wolfgang Güllich invented the campus board in 1988 to train for the special requirements of this route.


The route has been repeated sixteen times since its first ascent on 14 September 1991, a total, of which only three times in the first ten years: