Aletschhorn

Aletschhorn

Pd5

The Aletschhorn is a 4'193 m ( according to other sources also 4'195 m) high, glaciated mountain peaks in the canton of Valais, in the Jungfrau- Aletsch- Bietschhorn, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. After Finstaarhorn it is the second highest peak in the massif of the Bernese Alps. While placed on its northern flank of the Aletschfirn, the mountain is the starting point of the upper Aletsch Glacier ( to the southwest ) and the Middle Aletsch Glacier ( to the southeast ), both in the catchment area of the Aletsch Glacier.

The Aletschhorn is regarded as the coldest mountain in the Alps.

Routes

Northeast Ridge

  • Difficulty: WS ( French scale: PD )
  • Time required: 4-5 hours
  • Starting point: Central Aletsch bivouac ( 3,013 m)
  • Valley town: Fiesch ( 1,049 m)

Northwest ridge

  • Difficulty: ZS, III ( French scale: AD, with III UIAA level rock climbing. )
  • Time: 8 hours
  • Starting point: Oberaletsch huts ( 2,640 m)
  • Valley location: Blatten near Naters ( 1,322 m)

South-east

  • Difficulty: ZS ( French scale: AD )
  • Time required: 7-8 hours
  • Starting point: Oberaletsch huts ( 2,640 m)
  • Valley location: Blatten near Naters ( 1,322 m)

Southwest rib

  • Difficulty: ZS, II ( French scale: AD, with II UIAA level rock climbing)
  • Time required: 7-8 hours
  • Starting point: Oberaletsch huts ( 2,640 m)
  • Valley location: Blatten near Naters ( 1,322 m)

Hasler rib

  • Difficulty: ZS , II ( French scale: AD , and with II UIAA level rock climbing)
  • Time required: 7-8 hours
  • Starting point: Konkordia huts ( 2,850 m)
  • Valley town of Grindelwald ( 1'034 m)

North Face

  • Difficulty: S ( Fr. scale: D)
  • Time required: 5-8 hours
  • Starting point: Hollandia ( 3,240 m)
  • Valley town of Grindelwald ( 1'034 m)
Finsteraarhorn First ascent 1859 Francis Fox Tuckett Jungfrau-Aletsch protected area Mittelaletsch Glacier Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme
44657
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