Alexander Huber

Alexander Huber ( born December 30, 1968 in comfort, Bavaria ) is a German professional mountaineer and extreme climber. He lives in Berchtesgaden.

He and his elder brother Thomas Huber made ​​themselves as "the Huber Brothers " name as extreme climbers. Alexander Huber has a degree in physics since 1992 certified mountain and ski guide since 1997. Since then he has devoted himself entirely to the Extremalpinismus and is now one of the world's most successful all-round climbers ( climbing, alpine climbing, rock climbing, ice climbing, free solo ). The winner of the Bavarian Film Prize Documentary To the Limit (2007) observed the brothers in their passion, speed climbing.

Important Things

• First commission of White Rose (XI / 9a ) at the Schleier waterfall in Tirol

• First redpoint the famous Salathé ( 5.13b ) on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park.

• First ascent of Open Air (XI / 9a ) at the Schleier waterfall in Tyrol. The route was originally rated by Alexander Huber with 9a. Adam Ondra has proposed the first repeater of the route evaluation 9a . The route would then, if this assessment is confirmed by others, was the world's first confirmed route in this difficulty. The first ever generally accepted route in this degree is five years later, in 2001 by Chris Sharma committed route Realization.

• First ascent of the West Face of Latok II, 7108 meters, in the Karakoram, along with brother Thomas, the Munich Toni crediting and the American Conrad Anker.

• Ascent of the 8201 meter high Cho Oyu ( Himalaya )
• First redpoint climb El Niño ( 5.13b ) on El Capitan and thus first free ascent of the North America Wall.
• Redpoint of Free Rider ( 5.12d ) in 15:25 h and thus first free ascent of El Capitan route in one day. Both inspections along with his brother Thomas.

• First ascent of Bellavista ( 7b/A4 ) on the north wall of the Western pinnacle in winter, alone.
• First commission of Golden Gate ( 5.13a ) on El Capitan

• First redpoint of Bella Vista ( 8c) at the pinnacle of Western
• First ascent of El Corazon ( 5.13b ) on El Capitan

• Ascent of Cerro Torre (Compressor Route ), Fitz Roy ( Franco -Argentina, 5.11a, on sight ) and Cerro Standhardt ( Exocet )
• Free solo ascent of the Hasse - Brandler Direttissima on the Cima Grande.

• First redpoint of Zodiac ( 5.13d ), El Capitan, with brother Thomas.

• Free solo ascent of the Communist (8b ).
• Speed ​​record at the Zodiac in 1:51,34, fastest ascent of a big wall on El Capitan

• First redpoint of Voie Petit (8b ) at the Grand Capucin, hardest free climbing route in the Mont Blanc massif
• Filming for the movie To the Limit, director Pepe Danquart. Take a tour of possible camera viewpoints Alexander Huber crashed in the so-called Cat Walk of Middle Cathedral Rock to handle an outbreak of 17 m height from and pulled to severe injury to the hock.

• Free solo ascent of the south face ( 6c) of the Dent du Geant, 4013 m, Mont Blanc massif

• First free ascent of the Baur- roof to the Western pinnacle with the route PanAroma (8c )
• Had speed record of the route The Nose in 2:45,45 on 8 October 2007. Already on 4 October, the Huber brothers which in 2002 established by Hans Florine and Yuji Hirayama record of 2:48,3 with just 15 seconds difference almost broken.

• First free solo ascent of the Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc, the most difficult mountain in the Alps, on the Swiss driver (6b ) in the ascent and descent.
• First ascent of the West Face of Anna Holt, first free ascent of Holtanna on the North Rim and third ascent of Ulvetanna in Queen Maud Land, Antarctica, together with brother Thomas, Max Reichel and Stephan Siegrist.

• First redpoint of " Eternal Flame" ( 5.13a ) on Trango Nameless Tower ( Karakorum ) in the summer of 2009 along with his brother Thomas, Franz Hinterbrandner and Mario Walder.

Awards

• 2008 Bavarian sports award in the category "Ambassadors of the Bavarian Sports"
• 2010 Bavarian State Medal for his involvement in the club "I want to go up there! e.V. " (therapeutic accompanied climbing)

Works

• Alexander Huber, Thomas Huber: The Wall, BLV 2000, ISBN 978-3405156855
• Alexander Huber: Yosemite, Bergverlag Rother, Ottobrunn 2002, ISBN 978-3763375110
• Alexander Huber, Willi Meier swing: Three Peaks, Mountain Publishing Rother, Ottobrunn 2003, ISBN 978-3763375134
• Alexander Huber: The mountain in me. Climbing at the limit, Malik, Munich 2007, ISBN 978-3-89029-337-0
• Alexander Huber: Free Solo, BLV Verlag 2009, ISBN 978-3492404150
• Alexander Huber, Thomas Huber: Ice Age, Frederking and Thaler 2009, ISBN 978-3894057756
• Alexander Huber, Nicho Milan: The way out, mountain and valley, Munich 2011, ISBN 978-3939499-11-4
• Alexander Huber: fear, your best friend, Ecowin Verlag, 2013, ISBN 978-3711000361

Movies

• Climbing to the limit. The Huber brothers. Documentary, 2005, 45 min Written and directed by Malte Roeper and produced by: Bayerisches Fernsehen
• At the limit, Documentary, 2007, 95 min, written and directed by Pepe Danquart, Production: Hager Moss Film, Lotus Film and Quinte Film GmbH
• Center of the Universe, Documentary, 2004 Director: Max Reichel, Timeline Production
• Ice Age, documentary about the Antarctic expedition, 2009 Director: Max Reichel, Timeline Production
• Eternal Flame, documentary about the expedition to the Nameless Tower, 2010 Director: Franz Behind Brander, Timeline Production
• "Bavarian Direct - Adventure at the end of the world" documentary about the expedition Mount Asgard in Baffin Iceland, 2012 Director: Franz Behind Brander & Max Reichel, Timeline Production

Others

• Since March 2010 he has been seen in a TV ad of Ferrero. He advertises with his brother Thomas for the product Milchschnitte.
• With the establishment of AtemWeg Foundation - Foundation for research into lung diseases in 2010 supported Alexander Huber, along with other celebrities as ambassadors breathing the Foundation's activities.
• According to the company Alexander Huber suffered from depression in 2004 and a burn-out.