Broad Peak as seen from Concordia Square
The three summits of Broad Peak: North (left ), medium (left third) and main peak (center)
Broad Peak ( Falchan Kangri ) is with 8051 meters above sea level one of the fourteen eight-thousanders, and the zwölfthöchste mountain in the world. It is situated in the Karakoram on the border between Pakistan and the People's Republic of China. He belongs to the Gasherbrum group, which adjoins the south. Its northern neighbor is the K2, from which it is separated only by the Godwin - Austen Glacier.
Broad Peak ( Broad Peak ) got its name in 1892 by William Martin Conway, the head of a British reconnaissance expedition in the Karakoram, because of its over one kilometer long slope almost loose summit ridge. Conway looked remembers the sight of the mountain to the Breithorn in the Valais Alps. (Even in the naming of the place by Concordia Conway stood with the Konkordiaplatz the Aletsch Glacier, the Alps Godfather ).
The term Falchan (or Phalchan ) Kangri is the translation of the English name in the Balti language, and is not accepted by the population.
Summit of Broad Peak
Broad Peak is composed of several peaks, the 7550 m high north peak, the Middle summit ( 8011 m) and the main peak with a height of 8051 m. Due to its apparent independence there were voices, to look at the middle peak as 15 eight-thousanders (see also: Lhotse Shar ). However, the pass between the middle and the main peak is not less than the height of 7800 m, so that the central peak has only one notch difference of about 200 meters above sea level. To qualify as a mountain, a notch difference of 500 meters height is fixed.
In ascents of the west side they first reached on the summit ridge of the main summit whose lower secondary summit. For a force to be fully completed climbing the passage over the long icy summit ridge to the main summit is still required. Strangely this is that the main peak appears from the lower secondary summit of, as well as the pre-peak from the main summit of acts lower.
The Karakorum main ridge runs from south to north over of the peaks of Broad Peak and the central summit. There, the ridge extends further to the north east across the 6956 m high Kharut Kangri, a further addition to the summit of Broad Peak. Broad Peak North Summit, however, lies just north of the central summit and west of the Kharut Kangri and is located west of the Karakorum main ridge and thus in Pakistan. About situated on the main ridge summit is the boundary between China and Pakistan.
The first ascent was made by a small Austrian expedition with Hermann Buhl, Kurt Diem Berger, Fritz Winter plates and expedition leader Marcus Schmuck on June 9, 1957 in the Western Alps style, so without the support of high -makers and bottled oxygen. The climbers had previously reached the lower summit on May 29, where they found that the highest point is even further away. Thus, they initially went off again, and then a few days later, but to reach the main summit. Previously, an expedition led by renowned expedition leader Karl Herrligkoffer in 1954 had failed to approximately 6900 m.
The northern peak was climbed for the first time in 1983 by Renato Casarotto.
The Polish climbers Jerzy Kukuczka and Wojciech Kurtyka reached the summit twice, in 1982 both the permission of the Pakistani government to climb the K2 had received, which included climbing lower peaks for acclimatization. On the descent from Broad Peak they met Reinhold Messner, which they responded to the question of the ascent, they had been in the area '. Messner understood and promised to remain silent because the K2 approval did not include the other eight thousand meter ascent ultimately one. In July 1984, Kukuczka and Kurtyka returned to Broad Peak to officially climb it and to ensure the transgression of northern, central and main summit stir.
A day after the two poles and 27 years after its first ascent was Kurt Diem Berger on July 18, 1984 with his film and climbing partner Julie Tullis on the main peak.
Already on 14 July 1984, the Pole Krzysztof Wielicki had climbed the mountain in 14 hours in a solo ascent, for climbing up and down he needed a total of only 22 hours. At the summit he met on his expedition companions Janusz Majer, Walenty Fiut and Ryszard Pawlowski, who had already broken two days earlier and just now began the descent.
On 8 July 2006, the Austrian mountaineer Markus Kronthaler died after climbing to the top in the course of the expedition " In the footsteps of Hermann Buhl " during the descent from exhaustion and dehydration. His comrade Berg, Sepp Bachmair, managed with last bit of strength to descend to camp 3, which was on 6950 m height outside the kill zone. In the summer of 2007, Das Kronthaler brother George recovered the body from the death zone and brought home.
On 12 July 2007 Edurne Pasaban entered as part of their project 14 x 8000 at 11:30 clock with their comrades Iván Vallejo, Ferran Latorre, Asier Izaguirre and the carrier Hassan the summit, their ninth eight-thousanders. At the same time, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, Ralf Dujmovits and David Göttler reached the same place, which represented for them their tenth eight-thousanders.
On 5 March 2013, Poland Maciej Berbeka, Adam Bielecki, Tomasz Kowalski and Artur Malek made the first ever winter ascent of the mountain. Berbeka and Kowalski could not follow the descent and have been considered missing.