Chogolisa

Chogolisa seen from the shoulder of K2

Pd5

The Chogolisa is a 7,668 m high mountain in the Karakoram trapezoidal in the autonomous region of Gilgit- Baltistan in Pakistan, whose almost horizontally extending summit the 7,668 m high south-west connects with the 7,654 m high summit Northeast. The latter is also known as Chogolisa II or William Martin Conway as Bride Peak. The name Chogolisa goes back to the climber Norman Collie. The Chogolisa one of the Masherbrum Mountains, a mountain range of Karakoram little south of the Baltoro glacier. However, their relation in terms of mountain Vertical separation is not the Masherbrum the highest mountain of the chain, but the Baltoro Muztagh Hidden Peak in the neighboring.

Climbing history

Back in 1909 reached an expedition under the leadership of Luigi Amadeo of Savoy, Duke of the Abruzzi, a height of almost 7,500 m. A bad weather forced the crew to turn back. The base camp early this first ascent attempt had been built on the north side of the mountain, a high camp was located on the Chogolisasattel at 6,335 m altitude.

Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diem Berger 1957 attempted an ascent after they had successfully climbed for the first few days earlier, the Broad Peak with Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Winter dish. On June 25 they left their first camp and camped on a saddle at 6,706 m altitude on the SW ridge. In bad weather, Buhl crashed at about 7,300 m height by Wechtenbruch on the north wall on June 27. His body remained missing.

1958 reached Fujihira M. and K. Hirai, members of a Japanese expedition from Kyoto University under the direction of T. Kawabara, the summit Chogolisa II

The main peak Chogolisa was achieved on August 2, 1975 by Fred molded item and Gustav Ammerer, members of an Austrian expedition led by Eduard Koblmüller, for the first time. Two days later climbed on August 4, 1975 Hilmar storm and Alois Furtnerteich also the summit after a week before the key point - a 1000 m high 55 degrees steep ice wall to the 6,700 m high Kaberi saddle - insured. Expedition leader Koblmüller suffered almost the same fate as Buhl - he also broke during the descent by a cornice. However, he was roped and his comrades were able to keep the fall.