Damask

Damask ( from Italian, after Arabic دمشق dimašq, name of the city of Damascus ) is a tissue with alternating kett and schusssichtige games, which makes it possible to weave figurative patterns of all kinds. The patterns can be distributed over the web width. Damasks are usually made ​​on special looms with drawbars.

Due to the elaborate weaving technique and the great stress on the warp threads damasks only be produced with very high quality and smooth, shiny materials, formerly silk, fine woolen and linen, from the 20th century, mostly from mercerized cotton. The fabric may be the same color in warp and weft, then the woven pattern is clearly visible only in oblique light incidence; the pattern can also be highlighted by different colored shot. Popular applications are plain colored tablecloths and linens.

Weaving technique generally

For weaving of real Damask requires only a warp system, but two shaft or Aushebungssysteme. The basic binding to the so-called Grundschäften or the front dishes may not have a noticeable ridge. Therefore be used:

• Cross twill
• Five cohesive Atlas
• Hexavalent Atlas
• Eight cohesive Atlas

The patterning is performed on the basis of so-called prints, that is, groups of threads which are arranged in a stranded wire to the so-called Musterschäften. The number of warp threads in a stitch depends on the basic compound used. For cross twill thus form four threads a stab at fünfbindigem Atlas five warps in sechsbindigem Atlas six warps and achtbindigem Atlas eight warp threads. The strands of the pattern harness just hanging up in a bar and stem individually with weights ( solders ) are below complains that provide for an automatic reduction.

When lifting the stitches creates a so-called cross - trade. Thus, this also forms before the Grundschäften so that a shuttle can be shot through, the strands must have the Grundschäften extremely long eyes to 8 cm in length. Nevertheless, the compartment is considerably smaller than usual, and hence special, very low Damastschiffchen be used. The Musterschäfte must adhere to a reasonable distance from the Grundschäften. For this, the loom must be extended.

The weaving technique requires that the representation of figurative motifs done in square pixels, that is the outline of the pattern is stepped. This is because a full repeat of the basic binding must be woven for each excavated down. The greater the number of warp threads in a stitch, the coarser and stage the pattern. Therefore, half the stitches of three or four warps are possible with 6 -thread and 8 -thread Atlas.

Zampelsystem

The pull cords each pattern shaft leading upwards, are arranged in a hole board and passed over the loom structure forwardly of the comb charge. Each drawstring ends in a handle, so-called Zampel. The Zampel are located slightly above eye level of the weaver in order of Musterschäfte so that the weaver can selectively raise one or more Musterschäfte by pulling and hooking the Zampels.

The woven motifs spread depends on the collection of stitches on the Musterschäften (straight through or zigzag ) identical over the entire web width, or for each other mirrored.

The number of Zampel or Musterschäfte limits the possibilities of patterning. When, for example, 100 Zampeln, a single figure motif like a rose blossom be up to 100 stitches wide. In a 8schäftigen Atlas and a warp density adopted by 40 threads per centimeter five stitches per centimeter and 20 cm total width of the subject would be possible in a 5schäftigen Atlas eight stitches per inch, but only 12.5 cm total width of the individual subject.

Harness system

Each thread group ( stitch) on the Musterschäften gets its own harness cord, which terminates in a cord loop. It is therefore possible to independently dig each stitch across the fabric width and so, for example, weave writings or similar non- repetitive motifs. The order of the wires on the Musterschäften is completely indifferent as opposed to Zampelsystem.

The higher flexibility of the system precludes the effort required for pulling out of a single repeat. The harness cords can be conducted where they can be extracted from an auxiliary power either to the front to Weber and to the side.

Other weaving techniques on Zugwebstuhl

With a Jacquardaufsatz each warp thread can be lifted independently. The elevations are controlled by punch cards. The figurative motifs in a specified after the inventor Jacquard fabric therefore have not graduated, but smooth flowing contours, which Jacquard fabrics are easily distinguished from genuine damask.

Also on Zugwebstühlen binding species such as Samitum, Taqueté Lampas and were prepared to work with two warp systems and thus enable up to four-color patterned fabric. Lampas is woven with a backbone in canvas, twill and satin weave and a binding chain for image pattern ( figure shots ), occurs in Italian, Spanish and French tissues of the late Middle Ages and the Renaissance, and is now used for heavy upholstery fabric or vestments. In contrast, the main chain has the Samitum no binding function, the various margins occur in both warp systems similar in canvas and twill weave.

History

Damask was first produced in China. Its use spread to India, Persia and Syria into it on the Silk Road to Europe. During the 12th century the material produced in Damascus became so popular that the substance took over the city name.

In Grossschönau in Upper Lusatia was woven damask in 1666 for the first time in Germany. The German damask and Frottiermuseum Grossschönau documents the history of the local damask weaving and shows a functional Damastwebstuhl.