Derby shoe
Derby, the term refers to a classical shoe model, which is characterized by an open and lacing Derby shaft section, formed by the two side, coming from the seam and heel resting on the front part of the shaft side parts.
Historical
The Derby ( in English usage also Gibson, in French Molière, and - wrongly - in North America, sometimes called Blucher ) dates from the time of the early 19th century. The origin is not entirely clear, but it had one of the Earl of Derby because of its high Fußrists problems when sealing his shoes. It was then developed by his shoemaker this shaft cut for his shoes.
Features and delimitation
The Derby is not just a shoe base model, but also and especially a special shaft section. And this shaft section is many other shoe models are based, for example, the Norwegians or the Budapest. Therefore, in common parlance is often cut from Derby 's speech, when an open lacing and two quarters lying on the vamp are meant.
The outer shaft of the Derby consists of three parts: a front blade and two quarters. As a district is called the side beginning at the heel seam shaft parts, the front of the vamp (the front shaft part of the boot, which in the tongue toward the foot expires) are sewn on and with the Derby bolt so-called ( see figure: the short seam piece below the eye ), an additional very short reinforcing seam, be secured against tearing. Form typical for the two quarters is the classic Derby Derby bow, the upward arc curved lower edge in the front section.
The Derby can be good of its model counterpart, the Oxford, delimit, because it has a leaf section (closed lacing ).
The Derby is often confused with the Blücher, which also has an open lacing, but a different shaft section.
Variants
Derby sheet described above, that is the profile of the front end lower edge of the rear side parts ( quarters ) may be different:
- Classic Derby: arc
- Steep Derby: more or less straight uphill from the bottom upwards at a steep angle
- Spitz Derby: the front lower corner of the Quartier parts is pointed and directed forward
- Mokassinderby: The front blade, like the moccasin, an additional blade insert
The Derby can be made unadorned ( plain), with cross- cap ( captoe ) or with perforated ornaments ( Halfbrogue ) and wing cap ( Fullbrogue ). A Derby may be a shoe or a boot (Derby boot).
Practical features and use
The Derby is true in comparison to Oxford as a more sporty, not so elegant shoe model. The overall effect and the possibilities of clothing combination, however, depend on its design, the sole material, the upper leather color and any decoration. High-quality ( welted ) undecorated derbies are to be combined with both business attire as well as jeans. Therefore, the Derby is also regarded as the most versatile shoe model.
The shaft section of the Derby is handy for people with a high instep, because the train caused by the lacing down attaches to the shoe bottom and the lace can be opened overall. This also simplifies the entrance, in front of a shoe model with closed lacing (Oxford).