Diran

North-western wall of Diran, seen from Tagafari Base Camp

Pd5

The Diran, formerly also called Minapin, is a 7,266 meter high mountain in Pakistan's Karakoram Range. He belongs to the mountain range of the Rakaposhi - Haramosh Mountains and is located about 15 kilometers east of Rakaposhi.

Climbing history

The first ascent was in 1968 by the Austrian trio Rainer Goeschl, Rudolph Pischinger and Hanns Schell. They reached the summit on 17 August on the north-west wall and the west ridge, a route that had been previously tried in vain already four other expeditions: 1959 was a German Karakoram expedition, which was led by Hans Jochen Schneider, failed. Erwin Stocker and his native helpers were only a few hundred meters below the summit when they had to turn back.

The second ascent of the mountain ended in tragedy. The Spaniard Arturo Romero, Enrique Temprano, Ramon and Pedro Nicolás Jaúdenes reached the summit on July 11, 1979 While Nicolas the next day descent, stayed the remaining three in two camps, where they were buried and killed in the early morning hours of July 13 by an avalanche.

As the first woman, the Swiss Ruth Steinmann reached on June 30, 1983 together with Edi Furrer the summit. Your expedition mates Andreas Müller and Felix Waltert were successful one day later. After the climbers had failed on the first ascent of Nordgrats, they set up camp on the normal route and climbed the mountain from there in alpine style.

In the summer of 1985, three expeditions were on the mountain. A group led by Angel Serra Spanish expedition failed in June at the ascent of the north ridge; for the insurance of numerous rock and Eisstufen lacked the necessary fixed rope, also came a bear in camp 1 and ate 30 days rations. Success, however, was an Austrian expedition that climbed the summit via the normal route with stock chain. Fred molded item, Heinz Thallinger, Roland Schulz, Edi Koblmüller, Ingo Granderath, Gerald Fellner, Nani rattling, Herbert Spousta, Chris Stoeger, Gerhard Haberl and the Hungarian Istvan Katouna reached between 23 and 30 July the summit. Koblmüller molded item and thereby succeeded in making the first descent on the North Ridge. On July 24 were on the same route are also members of a British group successfully: Alastair Reid, Mark Miller, Doug Scott and his son Michael; The Icelander Helgi Benediktsson from her team reached the summit a day later with one of the Austrians. Sean Smith and Pakistani Nazir Sabir failed three days it below the summit in bad weather. Fellner, Haberl, Koblmüller and molded item also reached on August 1, the adjacent 7070 -meter high east summit of Rakaposhi, she at 4500 meters altitude climbed from an advanced base camp in alpine style. On the descent in bad weather Fellner crashed shortly above the camp and died of his head injuries.