Erhard Loretan

Erhard Loretan ( born April 28, 1959 in Bulle, † 28 April, 2011 Fieschertal ) was a Swiss mountaineer. It was 1995, the second climber, the ascent of all 14 eight-thousanders succeeded without additional oxygen, and the third overall. Loretan was both a degree in art carpenter and mountain guide, and died in the crash of a US-led him roped.

Career

Loretan, who lived in Crésuz in the Fribourg Pre-Alps, climbed the age of eleven his first mountain, 1848 meters high, Dent de Broc. Four years later he mastered his first challenging climb, the East Ridge of the umbel Horn ( 3645 m). By the age of 18 years Loretan had available an impressive array of extreme routes in his tour book, such as Western pinnacle North Face, Matterhorn North Face, Mont Blanc Peutereygrat and much more. In 1981 he received the Swiss mountain guide diploma.

His tactics when mountaineering was to be on the road as quickly as possible and with little luggage. Well known he was out with a flash ascent to Mount Everest in the north wall almost in the fall line from the foot of the Rongbuk Glacier. He climbed up and down in less than 40 hours and got this mainly because of the avalanche danger at night. He was not even with a tent on the road, but only with a shovel to dig a snow cave and to the bivouac. He rose with his climbing partner in less than six hours over 3,000 meters from the summit.

This technique increased on the one hand, although the risk because Loretan led less food and gear with them, but it minimized on the other side very much as he was able to climb faster by the lighter luggage and not stay on eight-thousanders for so long in the death zone had.

Loretan 1987 had the idea of ​​hosting the Patrouille des Poyets, after 1992 gave rise to the Trophée des Gastlosen from.

In 1986, with the Nameless Trango Tower Wojciech Kurtyka the Trango towers he had a very difficult new route.

His 14 eight-thousanders, Kangchenjunga, he ascended in 1995. Hillside, there was a kind of race with Benoît Chamoux, who had boarded at this time by his own count also 13 eight-thousanders. While Loretan the third man was standing on all eight-thousanders, Chamoux died about 50 m below the summit.

1996 handed over the registered in Zurich Foundation The King Albert I Memorial Foundation Erhard Loretan the created of pure gold King Albert Medal of Merit for his opening " new dimensions in modern alpinism ." Loretan have his dreams realized, without succumbing to the pressure of expectation of the media, the pursuit of publicity or the lure of the commercial mountaineering, it is stated in the certificate.

On 28 August 2011, his 52nd birthday, Loretan died in a crash on Green Horn in the municipality of Fieschertal. He was leader of a two- rope team, his 38 -year-old girlfriend pulled him into the depths. She survived but was seriously injured.

Infanticide

In December 2001, Loretan added to his then seven -month-old son in a fit of rage a deadly Shaken to after the child had been screaming for a long time. In 2003 he was sentenced to four months in prison on probation. He agreed to the publication of his name in order to point out the dangers of so-called " baby shaking ".

Special mountaineering achievements

Book publication

  • Erhard Loretan and Jean Ammann: The Mountains expire. Paul Verlag, Freiburg 1996, ISBN 3,722,803,969th Preview in the Google Book Search

Filmography

  • Höhenrausch - extreme mountaineer Erhard Loretan. ( Original: Erhard Lorétan, respirer l' odeur du ciel ). Director:. Benoît Aymon, 2011 ( online video, in French)
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