Gasherbrum I

The southwest side of Hidden Peak, the right of the South Summit (G 0)

• Until about 1985 I.H.E. Spur, south-east wall and grat -
• From 1986: Northwest Face ( Japanercouloir )

Pd5

The Hidden Peak, also known as Gasherbrum I, the main peak of the Gasherbrum group and with a height of 8080 m of elfthöchste mountain in the world.

Name

As Gasherbrum - to German beautiful mountain - the most visible Gasherbrum IV was originally referred to; the highest mountain in the Massif received the Hidden Peak Gasherbrum I the name, the other mountains were numbered according to the height. The name comes from the Hidden Peak British explorer William Martin Conway, who toured the Baltorogebiet 1892. He was a hand selected because of the mountain from the Baltoro glacier can not be seen, and on the other hand, to better differentiate from its neighbor, the Gasherbrum II Previously, the mountain was known as the K5, which went back to TG Montgomerie. (→ for naming the article Gasherbrum group)

Location

It is situated in the Karakoram between the Pakistani controlled part and the Chinese claimed Shaksgam valley and belongs to the most famous part of the Karakoram, Baltoro Muztagh the. In the Baltoro he is entirely at the far end, many miles east of the central Concordia square, in which unite the source glacier of Baltoro glacier to a large current. It is tucked away from the Conway Saddle, which mediates the transition into the Indian -controlled part of the Karakoram behind the group of Gasherbrum IV, V and VI, and only a few kilometers. From all sides it can be reached only by miles of glaciers marches.

Its north ridge falls to the saddle Gasherbrum La from out of the ascent eventually leads to the G II The ridge, known as Urdok comb, continues through the Urdok summit to Sia Kangri. The steep western ridge leading from the boiler to the Gasherbrum peaks. Preliminary endpoint of the southwest pillar is the 7109 m high secondary summit Gasherbrum South, called because of its position at the southeast end (or beginning) exist of Gasherbrumkessels as G0. South-east of it lies the IHE - spur, named after the run by GO Dyhrenfurth International Himalayan Expedition 1934. Dyhrenfurth recommended him as probably easiest ascent, the first ascent followed this route.

Due to the Kashmir conflict and the occupation of the near Siachen glacier by the Indian Army, the Pakistani government detained the area of Abruzzigletschers above the confluence of the southern Gasherbrumgletschers. Access to the IHE - spur is no longer possible, the mountain can be reached nurmehr from the Gasherbrum Valley.

Climbing history

1934 a reconnaissance climbers reached only a height of 6300 m, where they had to dismount. In 1936 there were already the first death on Hidden Peak. The first ascent was an American expedition under Nicolas Clinch by Pete Schoening and Andrew Kauffman on 4/5 July 1958 on the IHE - spur and the southeast ridge. On August 10, 1975 Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler succeeded in a two-man expedition (with only twelve carriers to the base camp ) via a different route ( north-west wall ), the second ascent, while the first ascent of an eight -thousand in alpine style. In addition, they were also the first to reach the summit without supplemental oxygen. A day later, Hanns Schell, Robert Schauer and Herbert Zefferer reached in expedition fashion the summit via the route of first ascent. Meanwhile, they succeeded ( and other members of their expedition ) on August 4, from a high camp from the first ascent of the 7426 meter high Urdok I. 1982 reached the French Marie -José Valençot the first woman to summit. During the same expedition, her husband, the Swiss Sylvain Saudan, the first complete ski descent of an eight-thousanders to the base camp succeeded. 1984 ensured Messner and Hans Kammerlander again with the double transgression of G II and GI sensation to the Gasherbrum. Less attention, and until now largely unknown, the traverse of Jean -Christophe Lafaille is both summits in 1996 alone. On March 9, 2012, both Poland Adam Bielecki and Janusz Gołąb succeeded the first winter of the mountain.