Gaston Rébuffat

Gaston Rébuffat ( born May 7, 1921 in Marseille, † June 1, 1985 in Paris) was a French mountaineer and one of the most important figures in the history of mountaineering.

Life

At the age of 16 years Rébuffat discovered rock climbing for himself and quickly became an enthusiastic mountaineer. Even at 21, he received the mountain guide diploma. Numerous challenging mountain tours glückten him together with his friend Lionel Terray, which as he counted the top of the French mountaineering. Also known as author of various books Rébuffat came into existence. A year before his death Rébuffat was appointed an Officer of the French Legion of Honour.

Some of his most important inspections are:

• Southwest Face of the Aiguille Pélerins ( first ascent, 1943)
• Frendo - pillar of the Aiguille du Midi (2nd commission, 1943)
• East face of the Pic de Roc ( first ascent, 1944)
• North-west wall of the Grand Pic de Belle Donne ( 1 perpetration, 1944)
• Grandes Jorasses, Walker pillar (2nd commission, 1945)
• North face of the Dent du Requin ( first ascent, 1945)
• Grandes Jorasses, Crozpfeiler ( 4 commission, 1947)
• South face of the Aiguille du Midi ( first ascent, 1956)
• Petit Dru, Bonattipfeiler ( 4 commission, 1961)

Literature of Gaston Rébuffat

• The Matterhorn. Epic of a magic mountain, A. Müller 1965.
• A mountain guide tells, A. Müller 1968.
• In rock and Firn, BLV Verl.-Ges./Bayer. Agriculture Verl. In 1964.
• Mont Blanc. The story of his discovery. ISBN 3-7654-2193-6
• Stars and storms. The great north faces of the Alps, GeraNova Bruckmann 1986. ISBN 3-7654-2058-1
• Mont Blanc. The Ideal 100 tours in Mont Blanc Massif, BLV Verlag GmbH & Co. 1975. ISBN 3-405-11485-3
• Between Earth and Heaven, A. Müller; 2nd edition, 1964.
• Between Mont Blanc and the Himalayas, Bruckmann 1955.