Gugel

The hood, Middle High German also: gogel, kogel, ball ( from Old High German cucula to Latin cucullus " bag ", " hood ", " cap ") is a detectable from the High Middle Ages garment that was almost exclusively worn by men. The hood was a hood -like headgear that covered the shoulders and was usually made ​​of different materials, especially wool, made ​​.

History

The earliest Fund, which was interpreted as Cowl, comes from an excavation in Hedeby, but the exact structure of the fragments is unclear, recent analyzes suggest that there may well have been in the textile fragments to a pair of pants.

While it was initially to have acted primarily to a utility garment of farmers, hunters and travelers, wearing the Cowl by men from the 14th century was fashionable, first in Germany and later in France and Italy. In the course of the tight-fitting Cowl was set with pearls and precious stones, embroidered with mottoes or decorated with an extra-long tail, the liripipe, and from about 1365 also preferably Zaddeln, and later by bells, which, however, subsided again, and finally only as a sign of entertainers such as received fools.

The fabrics used were kept in bright colors, also Mi- Parti. For the period around 1390 red colored Hoods are occupied, as in the wall paintings at Castle Roncolo at Bolzano to contemporary visual sources. The collar was usually open at the front, but closed with (then still quite new-fangled ) buttons at the neck, sometimes with a button placket along its entire length.

In the late 14th century, the original breaking way was abandoned as a hood from the upper classes and maintained only by the common people. Instead, established themselves in the course of the late Gothic period, numerous alternative carrying modes in which, among other things, wearing the head hole forward on the head to develop their own headgear, the Cappuccio in Italy or the chaperone in France, led. Here, the neck protection and liripipe could be rolled up into a turban -like structures loosely hanging around the head and shoulders, or. Late variants, such as the South German Frans Gugel, resulted in a similar manner to the known support from the portrait of Albrecht Dürer's hat with fringes around 1500.

In parallel, open bonnet forms that could be worn by women without removing their leinernen or silk hood, however, were more common in the west of the Rhine and northern Germany developed. Hoods in general, and closed Hoods in particular, can be based on city ordinances and a lack of image sources, however, quite clearly classify as a male garment, carrying it was considered in women than frowned upon and unrighteous.

In the 15th century developed from the Cowl two separate garments: from the collar of the Goller, from the top of the stocking cap. In the rural population, the Cowl but was next carried even to the 16th century, partly as a mourning dress.

The name of the Bavarian secret society Guglmänner derived from this piece of clothing, they still wear during ritual gatherings a black hood, the head and shoulders are covered in full.

Heraldry

This headgear is also found in heraldry coat of arms as a common figure. In the city Güglingen it is a canting arms. An old Munich seal shows a monk's head with Cowl.

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