Haute Couture
When Haute Couture [ ot kuty ː ʁ ] (French for " fine tailoring " ) are - in contrast to the latest established in the 1950's Prêt -à- porter fashion - from luxurious materials individually hand customized fashion creations of renowned fashion houses in the upper price segment referred to.
In a narrower sense, so is women's fashion of the few fashion houses meant that were officially authorized by the Chambre Syndicale Paris Fashion Association de la Haute Couture, meeting certain criteria, to designate their elaborate creations as haute couture. The term haute couture is protected in France. In a broader sense so that is referred from fine tailoring any kind. The Italian equivalent of the French Haute Couture is the Alta Moda, based in Rome (Eng. " high fashion "). For the upscale men's tailoring ( engl. "fine tailoring " ) is the London Savile Row internationally known.
History and Significance
As the founder of Haute Couture applies the Englishman Charles Frederick Worth, 1857/ 58, the first major fashion house founded in Paris. Its extremely expensive models that Worth had first imagined from a Mannequin were a wealthy clientele reserved. Worth dressed, among others, the Empress Eugenie, Queen Victoria, the Princess Pauline Metternich and the Empress Elisabeth of Austria. Charlesworth, to his assistant, for example, the couturier Paul Poiret was one, exercised great influence on the works of such later designers. A significant influence on the haute couture of the 20th century, the French fashion designer Coco Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent and Christian Dior. They made Paris the international center of luxury women's fashion.
The French Haute Couture organized early in 1868 in Paris to the global representation of the interests of the cutter craft in an association, the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Française, from which Chambre Syndicale de 1911 la Couture Parisienne was. The Chambre in 1927 opened an exclusive fashion school called Ecole Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne de la, which still exists today. In 1973, the umbrella organization Fédération Française de la Couture, du founded prêt-à -porter of the couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode, in which since the stakeholders of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture ( Haute couture fashion, since 1868 ), the Chambre Syndicale du Prêt -à -porter of the couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode ( Prêt -à -porter fashion for women, since 1973) and the Chambre Syndicale de la Mode Masculine ( Prêt -à- porter fashion for men, since 1973 ) combine.
The entire international fashion industry is geared to handmade, sometimes imposing creations of haute couture, which will be presented during the held twice yearly haute couture fashion shows in Paris and are of extraordinary craftsmanship tailoring. Today is - besides strengthening of prestige and image of the brand - the main function of haute couture fashion is to advertise through attention in the international media for less price- intensive and thus more sizeable ready-made clothing, cosmetics and accessories of each fashion house. Unlike in the past haute couture models with prices of up to one hundred thousand Euros per dress be purchased only by a small group of well-heeled customers worldwide and often viewed more as art and shown in exhibitions and museums.
The fashion houses, which afford an expensive haute couture division, will be less. After the Second World War were over 100 fashion houses full members of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture. The early 1990s were still about 20, in 2011 just 15 Significant former members are, for example, Jeanne Lanvin, Guy Laroche, Gres, Jean Patou, Nina Ricci, Louis Feraud, Paco Rabanne, Thierry Mugler. The Japanese designer Hanae Mori, whose company was in Paris ( closed in 2004 ) was, from 1977 showed the first and only Japanese, the Grand Couturier (Eng. " Big Schneider " ) was now called, and haute couture fashion.
Haute couture criteria
The term haute couture is protected legally in France. Each season the fashion houses have to re-apply to become a full member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, which the right is accompanied to introduce the term ' Haute Couture ' for their own creations, their own companies ' Maison de Couture 'and the fashion designers ' Grand Couturier ' to name. Other manufacturers may not be called haute couture their fashion. Non members can only be taken on the recommendation of members. Apply Since 1945, this strict criteria for the fashion houses (1997 eased some): the respective companies have a measure - studio operate with a minimum of 15 (formerly 25) full-time employees, lead the company's headquarters in Paris, and at least 35 (formerly 50) different, hand- crafted by a fashion designer has created models for day and evening wear, all of which are unique, seasonal haute couture fashion shows in Paris to present during the press. These conditions are checked one each season. However, the Chambre approve exceptions for non-compliance of a criterion. Not all companies that meet the criteria set out without difficulty ( for example, Louis Vuitton and Hermès ), operate their own haute couture division. Also, it came from the 2000s amplified before that recognized haute couture houses, mostly for reasons of cost, to the haute - couture shows did not participate (eg, Balmain, Scherrer ), only prêt-à- porter fashion show ( For example,. Ungaro from 2004 ) or exposing some seasons (eg, Givenchy, Lacroix ).
Since 1997, in addition to the full members each season more members of the Chambre as guests invited ( membres invités ), which, although not allowed to decorate with the term ' Haute Couture ', but the term ' couture ' their fashion. Many of them, as once Jean- Paul Gaultier, Anne Valerie Hash, Adeline André, Franck Sorbier or Elie Saab, were eventually appointed as a guest to full members in the past for several seasons.
In addition, in 2001 the status was membre correspondant ( corresponding member ) introduced. This can be assigned to established fashion companies that do not necessarily have to be based in Paris, but play a major role in the Parisian fashion world. These members shall have the same status as other full members, even to them it is permitted so to call her fashion as ' haute couture '. The state in mid-2012 were Valentino (Italy ), Armani (Italy ), Maison Martin Margiela ( based in Paris), Azzedine Alaïa (Tunisia ) and Elie Saab (Lebanon) corresponding members. Valentino presented as a graduate of the Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne ago already from 1962 haute couture fashion. The Italian house Versace was the mid-2000s with the Atelier Versace fashion line corresponding member. Versace retired in 2004 from the official haute couture look back, kept the couture collection at Atelier Versace, however, reversing early 2012 at the invitation of the Chambre Syndicale to the Paris look back. Also, the company Maison Martin Margiela, whose founder Martin Margiela had been made from 1989 handmade women's fashion, from 2006, was a corresponding member, and received the end of 2012 as a company with headquarters in Paris, the full membership of the haute couture dressing.
From the Spring / Summer season 2009, an additional category was established next to the haute couture fashion, haute couture accessories. From Spring / Summer 2010 Haute Joaillerie the category came for jewelry manufacturers in the luxury class to do so.
Recognized Maisons de Couture
Notes: * Membre correspondant / corresponding member (not French / foreign members with full membership status ) Membre ** invité / Invited Member (with limited membership status )