Hex (climbing)
A Hexentric (Greek hexa "six", colloquially as " Hex" ) is a mobile, that is wiederentfernbare climbing backup that is anchored in cracks, crevices and holes in the rock. It is used as an intermediate backup or backup state. Black Diamond called the slips Hexentric, Wild Country calling them rock Centrics.
Construction and form
The Hexentric is formed as an asymmetrical hexagon profile, which is tapered at the end faces. Typical sizes range from about 10 to 100 mm. Smaller Hexentrics, that is, below a diameter of about 20 mm, are usually designed as a solid profile, while larger Hexentrics have a hollow profile, in order to save weight. On two parallel opposite long sides is in each case a pair of holes through which a closed loop of wire or accessory cord is performed.
The other three pairs of sides are each against each other slightly beveled that they are tapered in the direction towards the long end of the wire loop. The distances of these three pairs of sides are mutually staggered, creating a Hexentric the user provides three different wedge dimensions are available. The sides are designed in planar Hexentrics at rock Centrics they are curved. In the latter case, for the most part are a convex and a concave side opposite.
In the form of an imprint a nominal shock loading is given. This is mostly above 10 kN.
Operation and use
Hexentrics are used primarily in alpine or sport climbing. They are clamped into existing structures of the rock, which run in main load direction.
The main loading direction has as fall downward direction in stand also at belays; there may, however, have also upward when the Hexentric is used to brace the stand down. Also lateral principal stress directions are possible if the Hexentric is braced with other mobile backup material.
Structures, which run forward can be found mostly in rock cracks between large boulders and at the openings of cavities. The Hexentric forth is inserted by a widening of the opening and positioned so that two opposite sides, which by design and are tapered in such a way form a wedge to jam a form fit in the opening. In this position he is tightened to prevent accidental slipping out.
The Hexentric has three possible orientations in which it can be placed. Namely, a clamped between the two different loop- free long- side pairs and between the faces. The wedge widths are different in all three possible orientations, so that an orientation can be chosen to match the rock structure.
The Hexentric can be taken back after use. If it stalls, it frequently helps to pull the wire loop or accessory cord against the main direction of loading or tear. Even Nut remover be used to loosen tightly fitting Hexentrics.
More information
Tensile loads and falls are held by Hexentrics especially in the intended main loading direction. A burden in a different direction could generate the Hexentric tear from his position. The transmitted by the wedge effect on the rock explosive force is significantly higher than the tensile stress. Therefore, the risk of failure of Hexentric in case of fall is also coupled to the strength of the rock.
In order to cover a wide range of terminal widths, lead climbers mostly Hexentrics several different sizes and other terminal devices, such as clamping wedges with it. Hexentrics are mainly used for large crack widths. They cover approximately the same terminal width range from as Friends, have, compared to these, however, two advantages: A very high degree of robustness due to the absence of moving parts and the comparatively low price. Hexentrics are offered by many commercial manufacturers. Typical prices range from about 8 € to 20 € per piece.
Because of its shape and its typical sound that arises when multiple Hexentrics beat movements in the harness of the climber, they are also sometimes referred to colloquially in the scene as " cowbells ".