Imja Tse

View from Chukung on the southwest wall of the Iceland peak

The Iceland Peak ( Imja Tse, Island Mountain ) is a 6189 meter high mountain in the Nepalese part of the Himalayas. It is located in Mahalangur Himal in the region Khumbu, between the Lhotse South Face and the Ama Dablam.

Name

The mountain was named by Eric Shipton Iceland peak, because the peak like an island stands out from the frozen wasteland surrounding it. In 1983 it was renamed Imja Tse in, colloquially, however the name Iceland Peak continues to be used.

Climbing history

The first ascent was in 1956 by a Swiss climber team, headed by Albert Eggler, as a training for the ascent of Mount Everest and Lhotse instead. The southwestern side of the mountain peak was reached in 1953 by Charles Evans, Alf Gregory, Charles Wylie and Tenzing Norgay first time.

Climbing Today

The ascent of the peak Iceland is considered as a difficult little. The difficulty of the normal route is evaluated with PD ( UIAA grade II ). He is a popular trekking mountain Due to its low complexity and good accessibility. It is therefore often the target of commercial expeditions. Of the members of the expedition a good physical performance and little mountaineering experience is required. Due to its altitude and extreme temperatures of the mountain often serves as a training for the ascent of higher Himalayan mountains. The mountain is climbed usually between April-May and October-November. Due to its popularity is needed for climbing a paid permit the Nepal Mountaineering Association.

From Dingboche ( 4340 m) a marked path leads via Chhukhung the Iceland peak base camp at 5100 m. This lies between the Imja Tse and the lateral moraine of the Imja Glacier. Above the base camp of the normal route leads through without problem scree terrain up to a glacier on the southeast side of the mountain. After crossing the glacier followed by a 100 m high, up to 60 degrees steep slope to a ridge This glaciated slope is generally provided with fixed ropes and the ascent can be overcome with the help of ascenders. The following exposed, little steep ridge leads directly to the summit. Shortly before the summit is again a short steep climb to deal with. The entire ridge is generally provided to the summit with fixed ropes. From the summit you have a good view of the eight-thousanders Lhotse and Makalu.