Jewellery chain

Chains for jewelry of people usually consist of precious metals and / or other materials such as pearls, coral, gemstones, etc. chain jewelry is occupied since prehistoric times.

Depending on how and where the chain is worn, a distinction is made between necklaces, anklets, bracelets, watches, chains, etc. However, a chain with certain limbs form is referred to as curb chain.

Chains, hanging from a piece of jewelry or a crown are called Pendilien.

  • 2.1 chain forms
  • 2.2 Specific uses

Production of jewelry chains of metal

Normal chains

There are two kinds of manufacture of jewelry metal chains:

Previously, all the chains were made tedious and time-consuming by hand. For this purpose, the goldsmith stood his own tools.

In the machine-made chains, a similar production principle as the hand-made is valid, and it is divided into several production steps.

Gathering the alloy

The alloy is a well kept secret. The only thing that is probably familiar to anyone who has the fineness of the alloy, ie, the pure precious metal content. Affect the other components, except for the physical factors such as the color, strength / friability etc., even especially biocompatibility. For example, there are white gold alloys which have a low nickel content, which can lead to allergies in sensitive Contra reactions. When using certain extra soft alloys, such as those used in large-scale productions, it may be that the color is strongly reddish, which is why the chain after production again " nachvergoldet " is, as most markets require yellow gold chains. This gilding has an intense yellow ( Turkish / Italian color) appearance and goes off after some time, however you wear it. Therefore, it is a sign of quality, so-called " alloyed " to produce chains that are made of a harder and yellow alloy and thus does not need to be nachvergoldet.

Manufacture of wire ( wire drawing )

In the manufacture of the wire wire thicknesses of 10 mm using rollers are brought to wire diameters of less than 0.20 mm.

Machine set-up and manufacturing of chain

The set-up and adjustment of the machine is the true art of chain making. A specifically on specialized professional and many years of experience are necessary to this complicated interplay of smallest pliers, knives and guides to adjust so that we end up with a chain.

Soldering the chain

When soldering a distinction between flame and laser soldering today. The Flammenlötung based on the same principle as is also working with the goldsmith. Here, a slightly smoother alloy or solder powder is applied, at the melting of which closes the gap in the gate. In more modern machines, soldering by laser could be carried out in an attached step.

Cutting the facets ( diamond cutting )

Under " diamond cutting " means the work step of using rotating diamond cuts or patterns are cut into the chain. The diamond cutting can alter greatly the appearance of the chain.

Possibly step (hitting the chain)

Some chains are to get your final look deformed (hitting ). This gives a certain rigidity that is desired for some jewelry designs.


For the final assembly, the chain is cut to the required length; End loops are soldered and the closures attached. Still occurs at the end, depending on the chain style manual or automatic final polishing, which gives the chain her radiant appearance.


On the caps or end loops called counters are also usually attached. The chosen indicators with stamp and brand names provide information about the manufacturer as well as the precious metal fineness of the alloy.

Production of hollow jewelry chains compared to the massive essentially differs only in a few steps. In wire manufacturing a flat wire is wound around a core made ​​of brass in the production of hollow- chains, then passes through the production process. This wire is etched out in an additional operation with acids, where one takes the different solubility of the metals advantage. The acid penetrates through the seam and leaves through the length of stay in the acid control how much is leached from the brass core. As a rule, the whole wire should have dissolved at the end of the process.

Kinds of jewelry chains

Jewelry chains are available in gold, silver, platinum, palladium, brass, steel, and recently also made ​​of titanium. Jewelry chains jewelry piece used as a carrier for trailers or as a "stand alone".

Chain forms

  • Anchor chain
  • Double anchor chain
  • Anchor chain flat
  • Square chain
  • Flinserlkette
  • Foxtail chain
  • King chain
  • Venetian Chain
  • Curb chain around
  • Curb Chain semicircular
  • Curb chain long
  • Curb chain flat
  • S- curb chain ( Irrgang )
  • Singapore chain
  • Figaro Curb Chain
  • Erbskette
  • Oat grain chain
  • Marine chain
  • Aida chain
  • Broad chain
  • Rope chain
  • Snake chain ( catheter mount )
  • Chokers
  • Omega
  • Ball chain
  • Pretiosa
  • Violin Chain
  • Zopfkette

Specific uses


  • Brillenkette
  • Watch chain
  • Napkin Holder


  • Taufketten
  • Pendilien
  • Anklet
  • Tie chain
  • Sign bracelet


  • Chain of office

Prayer chains

  • Mala ( Hinduism )
  • Rosary ( Catholic Church )
  • Pater Noster ( Catholic Church - precursor of the Rosary )
  • Tasbih (Islam)