JOOP!

The JOOP! GmbH is a 1986 by the German fashion designer Wolfgang Joop in Hamburg based, internationally operating fashion company for women's and men 's fashion and accessories and home furnishings, which is run since 2001 without Wolfgang Joop and since 2008 belongs to Kreuzlinger Holy Fashion Group. Large became famous for the company from the late 1980s through the launch of many perfume products under the name JOOP!.

History

Foundation

After the fashion designer Wolfgang Joop in 1982 designed under his surname a womenswear collection produced under license, 1985, presented a men's collection and had established himself as German designer a name that he founded in 1986 with his business partner, the Lancaster - manager Herbert pious in Hamburg JOOP! GmbH. The idea of ​​combining the name Joop in capital letters with an exclamation point to a trademark and logo, Joop had had in the early 1980s. Pious, who had previously been responsible for the establishment of the perfume lines of fashion brands from Etienne Aigner, Willy Bogner and Jil Sander, where he graduated as Lancaster - chief with the Joop! GmbH a 20-year distribution agreement from and launched the first perfume Joop, JOOP! Femme. All existing license agreements with JOOP! were terminated and renegotiated. The selling prices were halved to JOOP! to establish itself as a lifestyle brand in the upper middle price segment and not to market longer than designer label and thus achieve greater buyers. In 1988, the JOOP! Jeans established second-line in collaboration with Mustang in Künzelsau. JOOP! set down in the early 1990s nothing more in her own production, but forgave all orders to licensees; Joop's design studio in Hamburg was closed at the insistence From Mens. 1993 Pious was the new owner of Lancaster, John A. Benckiser, dismissed and was managing partner of Joop GmbH, in which he and Wolfgang Joop each held 50%. The company spokesperson was Joop's former life companion Edwin Lemberg. The fashion of Joop was presented at the fashion shows in New York and out of American department stores such as Saks Fifth Avenue. JOOP! company-owned boutiques (Hamburg, Frankfurt Airport, Dusseldorf ), which were led by partners, and sometimes franchise stores (Hannover, Kampen, Stuttgart Airport, Potsdam, St. Petersburg, Belgrade, Tallinn). A stylized cornflower - Joop's favorite flower - was next to the words JOOP! and the exclamation mark that from the mid 1990 also alone on clothing as a trademark - for example in white on red label on jeans back pockets - appeared as a distinctive mark for JOOP! been established.

Licensee companies

As a first license and the new company was established in 1987 awarded a perfume license by Wolfgang Joop. Over the years, numerous fragrances and beauty of Lancaster / Coty under the name JOOP! launched, including classics such as JOOP! Le Bain (1988 ), JOOP! Homme (1988 ), JOOP! Nuit d' Été (1990 ), JOOP! Berlin ( 1991), JOOP! Night Flight (1992 ), All About Eve (1996 ) and many more. The licensing business with perfume made ​​a big part of the sales of JOOP! from, for example, in 1992 about 190 million DM of DM 450 million consolidated revenue. The bottle of Joop fragrances were designed by industrial designer Peter Schmidt.

This was followed by more than 20 licenses for different segments of the brand JOOP!, Including Women's Fashion ( produced by Trend Trading Heidelberg, Jobis, Ica, Falber, Seidensticker, Windsor ), Men's Fashion (Windsor ) Children's fashion ( Mustang, Kanz ), Jeans ( Mustang ) knitwear (ladies: Fuzzi, Men's Windsor ) Ties (Windsor ), underwear (ladies: Calida, gentlemen: Hanro, Mariner ), socks ( Crönert ), Stockings ( Falcon ) Shoes ( Egana gold arrow Calzaturificio Monique ), scarves, leather goods ( Bjoern Pfeiff ) and bags ( Egana gold arrow), belts ( Egana gold arrow), glasses ( Menrad ), watches ( Junghans ), domestic items such as linens or china. The respective companies were itself partly responsible for the promotion and branding of their licensed products or a say themselves had secured so that over the years sometimes an uneven, uncoordinated brand JOOP! was the total mark.

Wünsche AG

At least as pious with Estée Lauder in 1996 the company founded Palladio, which launched fragrances for other fashion brands, it came between him and Joop for dispute, which had to be negotiated in court after Joop had tried to urge the pious from the Group. The annual turnover of JOOP! at the end of the 1990s more than half a billion DM in 1998 sold Joop and pious 95% of the JOOP! GmbH for about 150 million DM to the Hamburg conglomerate (textiles, real estate, shipping, etc.) of Kai wishes, the wishes AG. The company moved from Hamburg to Potsdam. More buying prospects were the former Hugo Boss Manager and brothers Jochen and Uwe Holy along with Peek & Cloppenburg ( Dusseldorf ) and was the former owner of Hugo Boss, Italian Marzotto Group. Under the direction of desires CEO Peter Littmann, previously CEO of Hugo Boss, Joop was creative director of the brand. Littmann should remediate the already ailing desires Group, which in 1998 again recognized losses. To this end, he wanted JOOP! expand into a global player and failed it. Even a planned IPO of JOOP! was not realized. Joop and Littman did not agree on the strengthening of the brand and brand management with the licensees and argued in this respect the media. At times there were rumors that Joop wanted to buy back his company, and eventually left Littmann wishes the end of 1999 in the dispute. Joop sold the remaining 5 % in 2001 to almost DM 10 million in requests and retired from the company he founded from. The end of 2001, even after the JOOP! GmbH high tax payments were due and Wolfgang Joop had obtained millions of dollars in royalty payments by a court decision, announced that it wishes AG - to the next JOOP! temporarily also the fashion brand Cinque, shares in the loss-making chain store Jean Pascale and the label Camera included - after a bankruptcy reorganization plan had failed and was liquidated in a row.

Holy Fashion Group

2003 was JOOP! GmbH after a takeover battle with banks and shareholders of Wishes insolvency in three equal parts to the former licensee of JOOP, the brothers Uwe and Jochen Holy (Windsor / Strellson - Fashion license !) And Hans- Jürgen Seeberger ( EganaGoldpfeil - license for leather goods and accessories ) and Lancaster ( Coty - license for perfume and cosmetics) sold, each of which in consequence was responsible for his area. The number of employees at JOOP! decreased from about 100 to about 30, The JOOP! boutiques were closed over the period up to the Hamburg and Dusseldorf. The JOOP! Kids Collection for children (from 1993 Mustang, produced from 2002 Kanz ) was set in 2004. 2006 Women's Fashion Trend Trading license from Heidelberg was brought back by Windsor, then completely suspended one year with the women's fashion and 2007, a new womenswear collection by JOOP! in the CPD presented in Dusseldorf. End of 2006, the designer Dirk Schönberger, up to 2007, a fashion label in Paris operating under his name in 2002, when Creative Director at JOOP was! ordered. Its purist creations were praised in the art, however, the customers reacted cautiously to the sometimes almost avant-garde designer designs. Mid-2007, sold Coty Inc. has own share of JOOP! - But not without to secure the rights to the cosmetics business for the brand - in equal parts to the Holy Fashion Group, founded in 2006, as well as Egana gold arrow, which thus 50% of JOOP! held. End of 2008, took over the Holy Fashion Group, which also includes the brands Windsor, Strellson and are licensed Tommy Hilfiger Tailored, the 50% share of the now insolvent Egana Group to become the sole owner. The Joop headquarters was moved from Hamburg to Kreuzlingen, new coordinates the myriad licenses out the brand portfolio uniform. A realignment of the brand and the design took place after disappointing sales figures. The main line for women ( in Bielefeld at Windsor made ​​) and Men ( manufactured in Kreuzlingen at Holy ) was in JOOP! Renamed Collection, the denim -based collection JOOP! Jeans was set and by JOOP! Casual replaced.

The name Joop

Under the name Joop operate independently of each other, the Holy Fashion Group, the label JOOP! and the daughter of Wolfgang Joop in 1996 her fashion and jewelery label Jette Joop (although since 2005, primarily as Jette ). Wolfgang Joop even the designer is behind his fashion label Wunderkind and has in recent years house perfume under his own name (Wolfgang Joop Wolfgang Joop free spirit ) launched commercially. This " confusion " around the name burdened by industry experts, the brand JOOP! the German market.

Products

The company JOOP! sold alongside women's and men's fashion continues to accessories (bags, shoes, leather goods, eyewear), watches and jewelery, underwear ( JOOP! Bodywear ) and a home collection ( JOOP! Living, Textiles, Bedding, Furniture programs ). Since 2008 showed JOOP! own collections at the 2007 founded Berlin Fashion Week fashion shows in Berlin. Schönberger left JOOP! In early 2010 and was chief designer at adidas, the successor to Michael Michalsky. For the men's collection is from 2010, the designer Marc Bigge man responsible for the women's collection Stefanie Grosse. Bigge man was replaced in 2012 by Matthias Rehbeck, which was previously responsible for the license collection Tommy Hilfiger Tailored at the Holy Fashion Group. The beginning of 2010 made ​​men's outerwear for 80% of Joop sales alone accounted for a third of men's suits.

The brand awareness of JOOP! in Germany is 82%. JOOP! runs since the task of their own boutique in Hamburg in late 2013 to the state in 2014 only its own retail shop in Germany, in the King- arc in Dusseldorf, as well as outlets in Bielefeld at Windsor, at Wertheim Village and in Metzingen. Main market of the brand is Germany; internationally, it plays no significant role.