Justacorps
As Justaucorps (german coat ) is called a men's garment, and the general main outerwear husband of the late 17th and early 18th century.
Formation
With the rise of standing armies was the war minister of Louis XIV, François- Michel Le Tellier, marquis de Louvois, designed a military uniform for the soldiers, which was also supported by the most noble officers. Louis XIV popular when he was with the troops, a sleeve skirt (Hong Reline? , Tunic? ) Via pull, which, apart from the equipment of the soldier's uniform ( " Souquenille " ) it was different that you can not buttoning it, but he rather too long pleats arranged down the front stood far apart. Until the mid-fifties came before this very rarely. During his stay in the army in the Netherlands (1654-1659), however, and afterwards, as he often put himself at the head of the troops, he got used to this skirt. He took him by also designed by him to Knöpfrock, since about 1664 to general fashion costume.
While maintaining the short, about elbow -length sleeves, he was carried on a tight jacket, also as a doublet, "Pour Point " means without changing it for now. The long sleeves are also suggested for the time being to a surcharge. The shirt sleeves remained the same, at most one equipped them even richer with ribbons and lace factory. However, he repressed unless he handed down to his knees and the abdomen sometimes completely covered, the pleated kilt skirt up against the seventies almost entirely, so that the wide breeches ( " vaste rhingrave "), which is maintained, fully appeared.
As a result, the rock got a total body-hugging cut ( no waist), which makes it the " Justaucorps ". He was often occupied with embroidered strips, provided with deep, rich edged, horizontal cut pockets and decorated on one or both shoulders with a bunch of bands. Initially, they used him again after all soldierly manner, this must be ground down the hips with a wide, long sash to gird ( to him to hold together ) weitbauschig, and to let their ornate edges with ends hanging down quite long.
Until the late seventies, several times some details, such as button work trimming braids and the like have been changed. In addition, the sleeves reached now, as in previous button skirts, to the middle of the forearm and they were beaten to the elbow to. The cut of the skirt was now even more closely matched to the body, so that a slight inflection in the waist was.
1680-1700
The next conversion extended significantly on the whole, it umprägend uniform. This transformation, the continuous occurred since about the beginning of the eighties, there was a hand in narrowing and lengthening the sleeves first to deep below the elbow and then to just before the wrist, with full respect of its narrow but wide on the envelope. On the other hand, in almost total reinforcement, they moved along the waist and extended the womb ( spreading extension). Herewith overcharging with ornaments of gold embroidery, lace, braid association, etc, for what purpose now, the bags were always wider, studded with buttonholes About flaps, what added more to the stiffener. The buttons but they brought only for ornament. The shoulder loops were lost.
In such, from the initial shape quite different design, the skirt stayed until around the middle of the nineties in general, and from there he until 1700 ( under continuation of his base section ) more partly in fabric and features, as well as the fact that you him henceforth generally only concluded prior to the waist, again won a lot of ease.
1700-1750
The clothing was the end of the reign of Louis XIV again fold poorer. The skirt, while the Regency commonly worn very wide open, was cut after the, well, less wide open than habit à la française and sometimes completely buttoned from the waist up in part or.
On the one hand just falling with low recovery of the waist, leaving him on the other hand dandy and those that are (fashionably ) wanted to apply as a posh, in imitation of female clothing the tails of the Rocks and the vest with sewn whalebone, oilcloth, Crin ( Horsehair ) or paper or anything else rustic material far apart, bell-shaped brace, so the tails off the side desisted from the hips as well as the hoop skirt from the waist to the ladies who form up to the exit of the forties, with only a slight reduction in width, was continued. In addition, the Justaucorps remained as before without a collar.
At the end of the development of the tails is with completely backwards migrated, rudimentary tails.
In the 20th century Habit generally referred to the official costume and the clerical robes.
Gallery Justaucorps
Louis XV. ( Justaucorps 1750 )
Joseph II ( Justaucorps 1780 )