Machine embroidery

Embroidery machines are used for making embroidery machine, so the decorating fabrics by on or sewn threads. In the more modern designs single-needle and multiple-needle machine, a distinction. Single-needle embroidery machines work with the chain stitch multi-needle embroidery machines can be (also called satin stitch machines) as hand embroidery machine or as a shuttle embroidery machines. The latter work like sewing machines with two threads (upper and lower thread ), the other machines on the other hand with a thread that is pulled by a double-headed needle through the fabric and recycled.

  • 2.1 sequins embroidery
  • 2.2 cord embroidery
  • 2.3 moss embroidery
  • 2.4 ribbon embroidery

Development

The first workable mechanism for an embroidery machine was developed in 1829 by the Alsatian Joshua Heilmann hand embroidery machine. It mimics the hand. The embroidery figures are created here by the threads are inserted and pulled through to the figure borders using the needles through the fabric that they gradually form on the surface of the pattern in sublime form. The embroidery frame is not horizontal and fixed, but vertically and movable, while the apparatus which grips the needle and pulls the thread, makes only a horizontal movement. Developed by Heilmann machine came first because of technical problems and poor quality of the goods produced almost forgotten. Only through the improvements made by Bartolome ride Meyer and his son Franz Elysäus ride Meyer and his mechanic Franz Anton Vogler in St. Gallen hand embroidery machines could be brought about around 1850 for the market.

This first hand made ​​embroidery machines embroidery from around 1850, especially in St. Gallen and the surrounding area at a very important economic sector. The embroidery was an important export branch of the Swiss economy, accounting for almost 20 %, for example, 1910. The St. Gallen embroidery thus replacing the previously successful cotton and canvas fabrication from the eastern Swiss textile industry. Both based in significant part on the home industry, which offered an additional acquisition of the rural poor. Stick factories established themselves only slowly. In Germany, the embroidery spread mainly in Saxony and has made there, especially with the Plauen Lace a name.

A first development of hand embroidery machines came in 1863 by Isaac Gröbli, who developed the Schiffli at the Benninger AG in St. Gallen Uzwil. This is used as a model no longer the hand embroidery, but the recently developed sewing and worked with two threads. 1898 was followed by the third and last step in the development of the embroidery machines, the so-called automatic embroidery machine. These were shuttle embroidery machines that were no longer controlled with pantographs but on punch cards. Today's embroidery machines still use the same principle except that, to be used in place of the computer punch cards.

Embroidery machines in Switzerland and in Saxony

The Swiss manufacturer of embroidery machines initially belonged from 1828 Maschinenfabrik St. Georgen, which was originally founded to entertain the operated since 1801 in St. Gallen spinning machines. The first embroidery machines that were built around 1830, after the submission of Joshua Heilmann, brought in the embroidery sector, however, still no economic breakthrough. From 1850, then the machine factory in St. Georgen finally succeeded in the construction of suitable machines. Other factories in eastern Switzerland Benninger AG were among others from 1870 in Uzwil (from where the inventor of the Schiffli, Isaac Gröbli dates ), and from about 1885, the firm of Adolph Saurer in St. Gallen and Arbon, who later also produced trucks. Already on Gröbli and the embroidery factory Jakob Steiger -Meyer from Herisau goes back the " Mechanical embroidery Wülflingen " which received the Progress Medal at the Vienna World Exhibition of 1873. In the same year were, for example, in Diepoldsau (St. Gallen Rhine Valley ) than 80 embroidery machines in use.

The Swiss market monopoly, however, was soon broken in the Saxon Vogtland. Here especially the Vogtländische Maschinenfabrik ( VOMAG ) is to be indicated in Plauen, which began with the production of embroidery machines immediately after its creation in 1881. To prepare the Plauen Lace invented Anton Falcon 1881 later in the center of the top German and embroidery industry, machine-embroidered tulle. She became world famous by the Plauen embroidery manufacturers Theodore Bickel, a domain of the Vogtland and " dentelles de Saxe" or " Plauen Lace". After a long dry spell from around 1920, it went from 1960 back uphill; 1989 Plauen lace was produced on 1400 embroidery machines and exported to over 40 countries.

Multi-head embroidery machines

Multi-head embroidery machines, as they are now also used in Germany, are mainly used for embroidery of finished tubular fabrics such as T -shirts, polos, shirts, socks and hats. Mostly embroidery for promotional purposes, associations and Workwear be created. The multi-head embroidery machines predominantly used today have attached to a crossbeam several embroidery heads, which are linked together with a continuous main drive shaft. Each embroidery head is equipped with multiple needles, then - depending on which color is to be embroidered - take the needle plate and the underlying gripper. As with regular sewing machines, embroidery with the help of a needle thread / sub- thread system is caused by a lockstitch. The movement of the frame into which the textile is clamped, the needle thread is placed on the fabric and fixed by the entanglement with the bobbin thread ( lockstitch ) fixed it. Modern embroidery machines have up to 56 embroidery heads and be able to apply various applications such as sequins or cords.

Large embroidery machines

While multi-head embroidery machines embroider on a horizontally oriented framework, embroider large embroidery machines on a vertically placed frames. Large embroidery machines are usually much larger than multi-head embroidery machines. On them mainly large-scale textiles such as curtains, fabrics and tablecloths embroidered.

Other embroidery techniques

Today's embroidery machines are able to apply other textile techniques. Among other things, sequin embroidery, cord embroidery, ribbon embroidery and moss embroideries are possible.

Sequin embroidery

In classical multi-head embroidery machines sequin devices are often adaptable, which also sequins embroidery can be introduced. The straw is pierced at the right moment from the needle and secured with a lock stitch to the base. Sequins are available in a variety of shapes, colors and sizes. Especially in southern European countries and in Asia fabrics with embroidered sequins are very common.

Cord embroidery

Cord embroidery are produced with special embroidery machines that work with the chain stitch. A rotatable needle with open eye allows the laying of the loops for the chain stitch. A rotating around the needle during sewing thread spool carries the stock to " Kordelgarn " such as Stick Twist, Goldlurexgarn or similar. This yarn is fed to the injection site and set with the chain stitch. This also coined the term crank embroidery.

In addition to the rotating supplied yarn yet, another thread, usually a slightly stronger (# 12), to be carried on the needle and firmly stitched to give the embroidery a little more fullness and allow more color effects.

Applications for this embroidery are raised ornaments on DOB, uniforms, underwear and death carnival hats, the so-called committee - caps. For technical embroidery laying and fixing of heating wires is on eg Insoles with this method, another potential field of application.

Moss embroidery

Moss embroidery machines are built differently than traditional embroidery machines, but use a similar technique. Moss embroideries are created by a Einfadensystem. The needle goes through the Trägermateriel (eg t-shirt) and pull the thread under the needle plate up. By a rotary motion of the needle is a loop on the upper side of the carrier material. By oftmaliges Repeat the result is a moss-like surface.

Ribbon embroidery

Ribbon embroidery machines are equipped with special embroidery heads. The ribbon head can turn 360 degrees around the embroidery needle. The ribbon is ticking and then unwound from a roll and fixed with different types of stitches firmly on the base.

Sources and links

  • New Brockhaus ( 3rd Edition ) Volume 5, P.131, Wiesbaden 1960
  • Meyers encyclopedia 1885 Heilmann'sche Embroidery Machine
  • Joachim Schubert 1994: Dictionary of Textiles ( 6th edition ), Frankfurt am Main, German specialist publisher
  • Peter Röllin ( concept ): Embroidery time, culture and art in St. Gallen from 1870 to 1930. VGS publishing community, St. Gallen, 1989, ISBN 3-7291-1052-7
  • Albert Tanner: The shuttle flies, rushing the machine. Weber, stickers and manufacturers in eastern Switzerland. Union Verlag; Zurich in 1985; ISBN 3-293-00084-3
  • Ernest Iklé: La Broderie mécanique. Edition A. Calavas Paris in 1931, text on the Internet at Ernest Iklé available.
  • Engineering
  • Work equipment ( textile surface design )
  • Textile machine
Needlework Embroidery hoop
749644
de