Makalu

The Makalu seen from the southwest (right of Chamlang )

The Makalu from the west

Pd5

The Makalu ( in China official: Makaru Shan, Chinese马卡鲁 山, Pinyin Mǎkǎlǔ Shān ) is at an altitude of 8485 m, the fifth highest mountain in the world. It is located east of Mount Everest on the border between Nepal and the Tibet Autonomous Region in Mahalangur Himal. His Nepalese side is part of the Makalu Barun National Park -. The first ascent was in 1955 Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy the first roped a nine-member French expedition.

Climbing history

In 1954 an American expedition attempted the ascent of Makalu, the first time. On the south-east ridge, the highest bearing ( V ) was established at 7000 m. On June 2, William Long and Willi Unsoeld reached at about 7070 feet, the maximum height of the expedition before they had to descend due to heavy snowfall.

The first ascent was made by a nine-member French expedition led by Jean Franco, which is - for the first time in an eight-thousanders - all members of the expedition managed to reach the summit. As a first ascent but only the mountaineer Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy are usually counted, who reached the highest point on 15 May 1955. A day later, Jean Franco, Guido Magnone and the Sherpa Gyalzen Norbu stood on the summit, which was reached on 17 by Jean Bouvier, Serge Coupé, Pierre Leroux and André Vialatte. The path led from the north on Makalu La and northwest ridge to the summit and is now called the " French Route".

In 1970, a Japanese expedition attempted the difficult southeast ridge route. On May 23, Hajime Tanaka and Yuichi Ozaki reached the summit, and thus completed the first ascent of Südostgrats. On the climb they had first climbed Makalu also the South East ( 7860 m).

Makalu was climbed in 1975 by Marjan Manfreda first time without supplemental oxygen.

Makalu was for many years the only eight-thousanders in Nepal, which has not been climbed in winter. Many well-known mountaineer Jean- Christophe Lafaille like that is missing since his attempt in the winter 2005/2006, and also Nives Meroi failed. It was not until February 9, 2009, Simone Moro and Denis Urubko reached first the highest point of Makalu in winter.

Summit of Makalu

The Chomo Lönzo ( 7818 m ) is also counted the massif of Makalu. It is located about four kilometers north-northeast of the main summit, and is separated from it by an approximately 7200 m high saddle. With a saddle height of 590 meters, it is considered an independent mountain.