Malubiting

Malubiting Northeast ( NE ), Central ( C ) and the main peak (-W)

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The Malubiting is a 7458 meter high mountain in the Karakorum. It is located in the center of the Rakaposhi - Haramosh Mountains, 40 km east of Rakaposhi, the highest ( and western ) hill of this mountain range. No 10 kilometers north is the Spantik, between these two mountains, springs from the Chogolungma Glacier, which flows to the east and the eastern Rakaposhi - Haramosh Mountains of the Spantik - Sosbun Mountains, another chain of small Karakorum, separates.

Top of Malubiting

In view of the east from the Chogo - Lungma Glacier one looks at the prominent acting agent summit ( Malubiting Central). However, seen from the north, he has no great nick difference to the main summit, which is called Malubiting West because of its location in the massif. The Malubiting Central is flanked by two side peak, the 6970 meter high Malubiting Southeast ( saddle height: 254 m ) and the 6834 -meter-high Malubiting northeast ( saddle height: 193 m), which is also known as Malubiting North. To the west of the main summit is the 6785 meter high Juto Sar, with a saddle height of 265 meters, it is also a secondary peak of Malubiting. Next to the West following the summit of the 6824 meter high Miar Chhish, who is with a saddle height of 724 meters as an independent mountain.

Climbing history

A sponsored by the Army Mountaineering Association expedition with British and Pakistani officers explored in 1959 the territory of the Chogo - Lungma glacier. The Pakistanis Jawed Akhter and the British succeeded AJ Imrie on August 2, the first ascent of the East Summit Malubiting.

The Poles Richard Szafirski ( expedition leader ), Andrei Henry, Roman and Andrzej Kus Petrycki tried in 1969 to reach the Chogo - Lungma Glacier from the Malubiting from the north. The much shorter march from the Hunza Valley from over the Barpu glacier was not permitted, because the Pakistani government had the Hunza Valley blocked for expeditions. The climbers ascended the pass between the north and Spantik Malubiting north to the south ( and between Chogo - Lungma - east and Barpu Glacier in the west), which they christened Polan La ( Polish passport). As a side trip, they boarded on October 8, the Malubiting East summit. Two days later they reached the plateau between the middle and the main peak at about 7100 meters, before they had to abort their ascent attempt due to dense driving snow and high avalanche danger.

The first ascent of the West Malubiting finally succeeded, headed by Horst Schindlbacher Austrian " Dr.. Arndt Schussler Memorial Expedition " 1971 Graz Schindlbacher, Kurt Pirker, Hilmar storm and Hanns Schell reached the summit in clear weather on 23 August; an attempt a few days earlier but had to be canceled by storm. The Styrian completed the route that the Poles had tried in 1969.

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