Momhil Sar

Recording of Hispar Muztagh from the ISS with Momhil Sar ( 1), Trivor (2) and Distaghil Sar (5) and Hispar - (A), Gharesa - (B) and Momhil Glacier (C).

Location

The Hispar Muztagh is the second westernmost chain of the Karakorum main ridge and on the west by the Hunza Valley. From there the chain in Lupghar Sar first achieved a height of over 7000 meters. South of Lupghar Sar is the Momhil Sar. About the north ridge of the main ridge runs to the summit via the southeast ridge and down to a saddle with its eastern neighbors, connects it to the 7577 meter high Trivor. The southwest of the Momhil Sar leads down to Gharesa Glacier, which is also referred to as Trivor Glacier. This glacier is nourished in the basin between South-west, south-east and south wall of the Momhil Sar and the northwest, the west wall and the south-west ridge of Trivor. It flows towards the west, his drain flows near Nagar in the Hispar River. West of Momhil -Sar - south-eastern ridge of Gharesa Glacier is fed by an unnamed glacier, which has its accumulation area between the west wall of the south side of Momhil Sar and Sar Lupghar. The northeast side of the Momhil Sar nourishes the Momhil glacier, which also carries the snow of the north side of Trivor and the west side of Distaghil Sar, the highest mountain of Muztagh Hispar, north to the Shimshal Valley.

Climbing history

The first and only ascent succeeded a Styrian team consisting of Hanns Schell, Rudolph Pischinger, Horst Schindelbacher, Leo Schlömmer and Rudolf Widerhofer the the Gharesa glacier increased in June 1964 to Connection Ridge between Trivor and Momhil Sar, where they built their third high camp. Until then their route of the first ascent of Trivor met four years earlier. After they failed to climb the Südostgrats initially, they returned a few days later back to camp 3, but now crossed into the south-east wall of the Momhil Sar and reached via the south ridge after about sixteen hours finally the summit.

Swell

Wilfried Noyce: An unknown mountain: Mount Trivor. In: Mountains of the World 1960/61. Zurich 1961, pp. 139-154.