Mont Vélan

Mont Vélan

The Mont Vélan is a 3731 m high mountain in the western Pennine Alps. About the main peak the border between Switzerland and Italy. This puts it in the Italian province of Aosta and the Swiss canton of Valais.

As a side peak of the mountain then includes the lying north and northeast in Switzerland Pétit Vélan, 3202 m, and Mont de la Gouille, 3212 m, and in addition, on the border ridge west to the Great St. Bernard Les Rayons de la Madelaine, 3051 m and east to the Col de Valsoray (in the direction of the Grand Combin ( 4314 m)) Mont Cordine 3329 m. To the south of Mont Vélan falls over 1000 m from a steep wall, in the north it is glaciated by the Valsoreygletscher and Tseudetgletscher.

Routes to the summit

Starting point for an ascent is the area, at the northern moraine of Tseudetgletschers, Cabane du Vélan ( 2569 m). The cabin is best from Bourg -Saint -Pierre to reach.

The normal route starts at the hut on the Tseudetgletscher and finally rock (WS, Jr. difficulty) to the Col de la Gouille ( 3150 m). From this pass gap, descend on the Valsoreygletscher and accessed via this the summit.

In winter, this tour is also accessible as a ski tour.

From the Col de la Gouille you can via the Northeast ridge ( Arête de la Gouille ) to the summit climb (WS, Jr. difficulty).

One of the most beautiful climbs to the summit via the north-northwest ridge ( Arête Tseudet ). The starting point is again the Cabane du Vélan, from here you take in the Col Tseudet ( 3169 m) and then over the ridge to the summit (ZS, III. Degrees).

First ascent

The Mont Vélan was probably on 31 August 1779, Laurent -Joseph Murith ( 1742-1816 ), Prior of the hospice at the Great St. Bernard, and two hunters from Bourg -Saint -Pierre first ascents.

The first ascent of the north-east ridge took place on September 3, 1872 by HJ Leaf Walter Leaf with the leaders Hans Baumann and Daniel Bich.

The north-northwest ridge was born on August 18, 1897 by WB Anderson, T. Ashby, C. L. and TG Longstaff climbed in with the leaders Joseph Georges, Jean and Pierre Maury Maître.