Monte Vioz

Monte Vioz seen from the south

The Monte Vioz ( German outdated: Viosspitze ), in older literature also known as Monte Viozzi, is a 3645 meter high mountain in the northern part of the Cevedale Vioz - ridge, a line extending from the Suldenspitze to Gavia mountain chain of the southern Ortler Group, a mountain range in the south Alps. The mountain lies on the border between the Italian provinces of Trentino and Sondrio. Until mid- 1990s, he was a covered with corn snow summit, however, because of global warming is generally snow and ice now in the summer on the south side. To the north and south it sends distinctive ridges that form the ridge line. Due to its easy accessibility from Rifugio Mantova del Vioz ( German: Viozhütte ) of it is an easily accessible mountain views. He is often committed by a transgression from Monte Cevedale or Palón de la Mare. The Vioz (triangulation ) was first climbed in 1854, probably on the occasion of the Austrian National Survey by an Alpine Guide Christophoro Groos. The first certain tourist commission was held by a native of Bohemia Polar and Alpine explorer Julius Payer, the mountain guide, Johann Pinggera from Solda and the carrier Antonio Chiesa from Pejo on 4 September 1867.

Environment

At the Monte Vioz only encounter significant in the north glacier. In the northeast the Vedretta Rossa extends even up to just below the summit, and in the west the Ghiacciaio dei Forni, the largest glacier of the region extends. The former Vedretta Vioz in the south is a glacier only in the uppermost part. Adjacent peak is during the Nordgrats, separated by the Passo della Rossa Vedretta ( 3405 m), the 3703 meter high Palón de la Mare. During the partly covered with Firn south-eastern ridge is separated by the Colle Vioz ( 3330 m), the Punta Taviela with 3612 meters of altitude. To the east of Vioz falls down to the Val de la Mare. The Trentino village in the Val di Pejo Pejo is located about five kilometers in a straight line in a southerly direction, the South Tyrol Solda approximately 13.5 km to the north.

Climbing history

The exact way the first Steiger from 1854 is no longer traceable. The Austrian surveyor Feuerstein writes in a Triangulirungsprotokoll from 1855: Viosspitze. In 1854, the Imperial and Royal Military triangulation by the Alpine Guides Christophoro Groos was erected by a signal pole. The Alpine Journal, the Journal of the British Alpine Club, reported in 1865, however, that the surveyors had climbed until 1863 on the southeast ridge of Mount Vioz. However Secured Julius Payer's way in 1867. He started at a bivouac on the southeast, Piani de Laretti, about 450 meters above Pejo. To the northwest was reached on the no longer existing Vedretta Saline, and on the south-east ridge to the summit. Payers group required two to three quarters of an hour for the climb. Louis Friedman reported in Eduard Richter: 1 U. To the summit was abandoned after the building of a stone man again and chosen another way of descent. They rode on his back up the steep snow slopes of the top Vedretta Valle Well thal forward [ ... ] After they had brought the camp under stones deponirte implements [ ... ] they reached Pejo by 5 U. 45

Normal and bases

Today's normal route to Monte Vioz leads from the Rifugio Mantova del Vioz, at an altitude of 3535 meters above sea one of the highest eastern Alps huts, in 20 minutes on the summit, where a cross with a small bell is. This cabin also serves as an intermediate base for the ridge crossing ( high way) from Monte Cevedale to Pizzo Tresero. Of the four km eastern Branca Hut ( Ref. Cesare Branca, 2487 m) of the Vioz over the northwest as high tour with suitable equipment and glacier experience can be done in five hours.

Sources and maps

  • Peter Holl: Alpine Club leaders Ortler Alps, 9th edition, Munich 2003, ISBN 3-7633-1313-3
  • Julius Payer: The Southern Ortler Alps, Justus Perthes, Gotha 1869, Supplement Issue 27 Geography to Dr. A. Petermann's Mittheilungen
  • Eduard Richter (Editor): The development of the Eastern Alps, Volume II, published by the German and Austrian Alpine Club, Berlin, 1894
  • Casa Editrice Tabacco, Tavagnacco: Carta topografica 1:25,000, sheet 08, Ortles-Cevedale/Ortlergebiet
Italy First ascent Gaviapass Peio As the crow flies Alpine Club (UK) Bivouac shelter
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