Piz Scerscen

In the middle of the Piz Scerscen, right Piz Roseg, just left of the center of Piz Bernina with the Bianco

The Piz Scerscen is a 3'971 m above sea level. M. high mountain in the Bernina Range. Over its peak the border of the Swiss canton of Graubünden and the Italian province of Sondrio runs ( Lombardy ). He is the direct neighbor of the Piz Bernina south-westerly, the only four-thousand of the Eastern Alps.

Location

The Piz Scerscen extends as powerful, just one and a half kilometer long wall of Piz Bernina to the north east to the south-west Porta da Roseg ( 3'522 m above sea level. M. ), which leads on to Piz Roseg. About this ridge is the boundary between Italy and Switzerland. In the Swiss national map he has listed five points, its highest with 3'971 m above sea level. M. located approximately in the center of the ridge. To the south, the whole chain falls into steep rock faces on the Italian Vedretta di Scerscen Superiore. The north side is mostly covered with ice and carries a huge hanging glacier, which leads over on the ice spur into a rocky ridge. In this ridge rises with 3'252 m above sea level. M. Piz Umur.

Climbing opportunities

The normal route leads over ice spur and is considered difficult alpine tour. The starting point is the north to 2,573 m above sea level. M. lying Tschiervahütte (SAC ). From the hut the Vadret is achieved because Tschierva a Moränenweg. The ridge of Piz Umur immediately west, you come to a ridge which over ice spur - leads to a hanging glacier - a steep Eisstufe. About this route leads to a steep short wall of ice, over which the summit is reached.

From the Italian side of the normal route leads through the Southwest Couloir ( quite difficult) which. 2'813 m above sea level of the M. high Rifugio Marinelli Bombardieri (CAI ) is reached. The route is at risk of rockfall in the couloir.

Is also committed the transgression of the Porta da Roseg on the south-west ridge to the summit and from there via the northeast ridge to the Piz Bernina. By the south wall leads an alpine climb ( to V ).

History

Origin of the name

The Piz Scerscen has long been considered only as a shoulder of the Piz Bernina and therefore remained nameless. The name Scerscen probably comes from the Latin circino ( = boiler, end of the valley ). In Italy, the summit of Monte Rosso di Scerscen or shortened Monte Scerscen is called.

Climbing history

The first ascent was made on September 13, 1877 by the German geologist Paul Güssfeldt together with Hans Grass and Kaspar Kapat. They used today by the normal route Tschiervahütte on ice spur. Paul Güssfeldt also get more first ascents: Two years later, on September 15, 1879, together with Hans Grass made ​​the first ascent of the southwest couloirs, now the normal route from the Italian side. Likewise was the longitudinal exceeded the southwestern Porta Roseg the northeastern Piz Bernina on September 22, 1887 by Güssfeldt along with Emile Rey and JB Aymonod.

The first winter ascent succeeded Walter Risch on March 29, 1938, the Southwest Couloir.

Ludwig Norman Neruda by increased along with Christian Klucker on July 9, 1890 for the first time the west wall. This tour is now rarely used because of high Eisschlaggefahr.