Prusik

The Prusik knot, also Prusikschlinge, is a terminal node, which incurs under stress and relaxes again upon relief. It is named after its inventor Karl Prusik, a music teacher in Vienna, who invented it in 1931. The Ashley Book of knots it can be found under the number 1763 as a radially -used nodes while Prusik enabled new applications for use in the axial direction. The technique of ascent on the rope with a Prusikschlinge called " prussik knot ". If an ascender is used, it is called " jümarn ".

  • 3.1 Make the Prusiks
  • 3.2 gripped with one hand with endless loop
  • 3.3 Gérard Hitch
  • 3.4 systematics

Application

Rope ascents

The Prusik knot is used by climbers, cavers and scouts to move up to a hanging rope. To two riser loops are used with a length of about 150 cm, which are alternately pushed up the rope.

Backup while rappelling

When abseiling it is used as a backup to the brake cable. The loose Prusik knot is carried while rappelling by hand and jammed if the climber lets go of the rope. With an approximately 20 cm long Cord sling a Prusik is tied to the brake cable ( for both strands ), ie below the descender. The other end of the sling is fastened to the leg loop the harness. The construct should be so short that the Cord could not slip up in the descender in and then have to be removed extremely cumbersome; to correct the Cord - loop is shorter knotted or twice instead of three - hit for endless loops by the bay (see below).

Construction of pulleys

In the crevasse rescue so that a pulley is built to pull up a hanging rope climbers ( Prusik pulley called the " St. Bernard "). For self- rescue from a crevasse of the Prusik for Münchhausenplatz technique is used.

In cable-stayed bridges, the suspension rope shall be taken with a Prusik and clamped with a pulley before it is attached to the anchor point.

Home and Garden

Extensively growing plants often require support. Rods made of bamboo material and plastic provide stable scaffolds for example, Rubber trees. The attachment of the arms to the smooth bamboo plants may well take place with a Prusik knot. Pulling a smooth rod from the ground, works well with the Prusik knot, which brings a good clamping action on the smooth surfaces. The opposite, a Plant Stake (eg Beanstalk ) to drive into the ground, is achieved with a Prusik knot and a Fußschlinge.

Prusik on a smooth iron rod which was stuck in the ground

Noose around the lever arm and the train can start

The long iron rod is pulled out completely

Driving a " beanpole " with the whole body weight into the ground

" Rope ladder level" ( co-solvent ) as a connection between two different ropes with a double-sided Prusik

Knot strength

The knot strength is highly dependent on the difference in cable diameter and the material and surface properties of the two ropes. Is fixed, the node with a difference of diameter of 1 to 1.5 to 1: 5; However, the greater the difference, the weaker is the thin line. Only by a smaller cable diameter, with which the node is attached to the standing rope, a good clamp ( wedge) enters effect. With a 10 mm climbing rope using a Cord with at least 4 mm, max. 6 mm in diameter, or a narrow band sling with 12 mm width.

Knots

Make the Prusiks

You put an endless loop of thin rope as anchor loose stitch around the thicker rope. Then you can take the long loop around the rope again and puts it back through the short bay. Loaded to the noose, the Prusik knot stuck on the rope. Relieves you the sling can move the Prusik knot on the rope.

Lark

By the bay

Finished

Used one-handed with endless loop

In a hanging / fixed loop into it from above with the hand to the thumb around a " loose " eye place, opposite place with your fingers a second eye. Both repeat, then merge the thumb and finger and slide on the finger, the " thumb eyes." (or two eyes left and two right - eye counter - lay ) is dense fetch the Prusik knot with your thumb.

Gérard Hitch

Fast can a Prusik -like terminal node stuck when he is struck with an endless sling inside. This saves you the multiple By plugging the loop end. As " Gérard - Hitch " by E. Gérard in 1922 published in La Montagne

System

Prusikknoten the anchor is an extension of the stitch.

Alternatives

  • The carbine terminal node ( Bachmann ) is easy to grip better and move easier cross clamping node ( Klemheist ) for large diameter differences
  • Hitch -1740 and Tarbuck - better for single- loop formation, but tilt
  • Blake node heavier but safer node in the SCT (technical climbing)
  • The FB - band terminal nodes can be moved more easily and even holds on wire ropes.
  • In the maritime sector, Stopperstek is used, which is executed instead of an endless loop with a single line.
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