Shishapangma

Aerial view of Shishapangma (left)

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The Shishapangma ( officially Xixabangma, Chinese: Xīxiàbāngmǎ Feng希夏 帮 马 峰; in Sanskrit, outdated, Gosainthan ) is at an altitude of 8027 m, the lowest of the eight-thousanders, and simultaneously the fourteenth highest mountain in the world.

Name

The Tibetan name shi sha sbang ma means "the range above the grassy plain " and accurately describes the view that presents itself to the observer when approaching from the north. It lies in the Langtang Himal ( Himalayan ) 5 km east of the Sino- Nepalese border and is the only eight-thousanders, which lies entirely on Chinese territory ( Tibet Autonomous Region ). Its highest peak is approximately at the center (90 km distance) between Kathmandu and the river Tsangpo. Originally designed for the Shishapangma the Indian name (Sanskrit ) Gosainthan was used, which means as much as "place of the saints."

Discovery

The Austrians Heinrich Harrer and Peter Aufschnaiter outlined in their flight from India to Lhasa 1945/46, the Shishapangma group superficially from the north. The first photos made ​​of Swiss Toni Hagen 1952.

First ascent

On May 2, 1964 put the ten climbers Xǔ Jing许 竞, Zhang Junyan张俊 岩, Wáng王富洲Fuzhou, Wu ZongYue邬 宗 岳, Chén San陈 三, Soinam Dorje ( Suǒnán Duoji索南多吉) Chéng Tiānliàng程天亮, Migmar Zhaxi ( Mǐmǎ Zhaxi米马扎西) Dorje ( Duoji多吉) and Deng Yun云 登as part of an expedition that included 195 participants from China, the foot on the last hitherto unclimbed eight-thousanders. On May 18, 1964, the team set up his base camp at about 5000 m altitude. The weather conditions were miserable at about -20 ° C air temperature. With the scope of the expedition, the group is the largest ever in the history of Himalayan mountaineering. Approximately 19 tons of luggage had to be sufficient for the large group of climbers, glaciologists, geologists, meteorologists, cartographers and altitude physiologists. The camp was a strict rectangular building made ​​of green 20 -man tents with a large felt tent, which offered all participants at the same place and took place in the film screenings and meetings. In smaller tents kitchen, canteen, radio station, Hospital and weather station were housed. All camp was also equipped with electric power. Leader of the expedition was Xǔ Jing许 竞" masters of mountaineering ", who also in 1960 as Deputy Head took on the ascent of Everest. He was represented by the year- younger Zhang Junyan张俊 岩, who was in charge at Mount Everest in 1960 for camp construction and material handling. For foreign climbers of Shishapangma was first opened in 1978. He is to climb among the eight-thousanders to be relatively simple.

Ascents

The normal route is the way of the first ascent of the north. This crosses below the central summit on the west ridge towards the main summit. Also possible is the climb to the summit means, can be from where the main peak reached on a exposed ridge. Since the middle peak is easier to climb, choose commercial expeditions these mostly first goal of being able to reach in good conditions over the ridge with the option of the main summit. More routes on the north side cross this mostly for the east ridge and then run through this to the main summit.

The ascent on the south side (south wall ) is more difficult because it is steeper. For the first time the wall in 1982 by Doug Scott, Roger Baxter -Jones and Alex McIntyre could be increased. Meanwhile, there are three other routes through the south-west wall and an over the southeast ridge. In April 2011, Ueli Steck managed a solo ascent of the 2,000-meter south-west wall in just 10 hours.

The central peak has now been climbed more than 750 times, with only about 50 climbing the traverse was made ​​to the main summit. In the main peak, however, no 300 ascents were counted. The west summit was first climbed by Jerzy Kukuczka and Artur Hajzer during the commission of the complete west ridge in 1987. Jean -Christophe Lafaille created the first winter ascent on 11 December 2004. The first winter ascent in the calendar Winter succeeded climbers Simone Moro and Piotr Morawski on 15 January 2005. The first South-North exceedance of the main summit led Ralf Dujmovits, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and Hirotaka Takeuchi in 2005 by.