Sia Kangri
The Gasherbrum group and the Sia Kangri (top right)
The Sia Kangri ( Sia Kangri and I or Queen Mary Peak) is a 7422 m high mountain in the Baltoro Muztagh in the Karakoram. It is located in the border area between Pakistan's autonomous region of Gilgit -Baltistan, the Indian province of Jammu and Kashmir and claimed by China Shaksgam Valley in the disputed region of Kashmir.
Location in the Karakorum
The mountain owes its name to the Siachen Glacier, the accumulation area is located on the southeast side of the Sia Kangri. He is the easternmost mountain in the Baltoro Muztagh, the central backbone of the Karakorum. In his neighborhood several chains, the Karakorum meet. Northwest of the Sia Kangri rises the Urdok Crest, an arm of the 8000ers Hidden Peak. East of the Sia Kangri is the Indira Col, who as Baltoro Muztagh Pass, with the Siachen Muztagh ( on the northeast side of the Siachen glacier ).
The Conway Saddle is located southwest of the Sia Kangri and connects it to the Baltoro Kangri and thus with the chains of Masherbrum Mountains. In the south of the mountain is the Sia La, beyond this pass follow the Ghent Kangri and the other mountains of the Saltoro Mountains.
First ascent
The first ascent was made in 1934 by members of the International Himalaya Expedition by Günter Dyhrenfurth. On August 12, Hans Ertl and Albert Höcht were on the main peak, previously had accompanied them from the carrier Hakimbek crossed the eastern summit. Already on August 3 had Ertl, Höcht, Dyhrenfurth and his wife Hettie climbed about 7315 Meterh high western summit - Hettie Dyhrenfurth, setting a world altitude record for women who had existed until 1954. The similar high central peak could be reached on August 10, James Belaieff, Piero Ghiglione and André Roch.
The Sia Kangri II has never been climbed.
Summit
The Sia Kangri has several peaks. Northwest of the main summit is the 7327 m high western summit, just south of this the 7275 -meter-high central peak. The 7325 m high east summit is located southwest of the main summit. These altitudes are not without controversy, since especially the side peaks were rarely measured.
The 7093 meter high Sia Kangri II is also known as Mount Hardinge. It is located southeast of the Sia Kangri. With a saddle height of 401 meters, it does have a certain degree of independence, but is given secondary summit of Sia Kangri.