Thomas Huber

Thomas Huber ( born November 18, 1966 in Palling ) is a German mountaineer and mountain guide.

He and his younger brother Alexander Huber made ​​themselves as "the Huber Brothers " name as extreme climbers. Thomas Huber climbed since the age of ten. Since 1992, he is a certified mountain and ski guides. He lives with his wife and three children in Berchtesgaden. The documentary To the Limit (2007) observed the brothers in their passion, the so-called speed climbing. 2011 with him a benign renal tumor was diagnosed. He survived the operation, but was thrown back a little sporty.

Important inspections

  • First RP ascent of the alpine rock route The End of Silence ( X/8b ), part of the so-called " Alpine Trilogy ", the most severe at this time three alpine sports climbing.
  • Free ascent of the Salathé on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park
  • Winter ascent of the Eiger North Face.
  • First ascent of the West Face of Latok II ( 7108 m) in the Karakorum (together with brother Alexander, Conrad Anker and Toni crediting )
  • First free ascent of El Niño ( 5.13b ) on El Capitan and thus first free ascent of the North America Wall
  • Redpoint of freeriders, at the same time first free ascent of El Capitan route in one day. Both visits with his brother Alexander.
  • Third ascent of Dreamcatcher (Thun Gorge / Austria )
  • Second ascent of the southwest face of Latok IV ( 6445 m)
  • First ascent of the direct north pillar on Shivling ( 6543 m) along with Ivan Wolf
  • First ascent of a new free- climbing route on El Capitan: Golden Gate (together with brother Alexander)
  • First ascent of the Ogre III ( 6800 m)
  • Second ascent of the Ogre I ( 7285 m ) to the previously several expedition teams had failed.
  • First redpoint of Zodiac ( X ) on El Capitan
  • Fastest ascent of El Capitan route: Zodiac in 1:52 hours with brother Alexander (compared to normal cliques need for this route 2-5 days)
  • Ascent of the west summit of Arwa Spire ( 6088 m) in the Indian Garhwal Himalaya.
  • Exceeded Torre Stand Hart - Herron - Torre Egger in Patagonia
  • Beginning of the filming of the Limit. Record attempt in speed climbing The Nose on the route. The record was 2 hours and 48 minutes ( normal cliques require 3-5 days ). When training in Yosemite Valley crashed Thomas ' brother Alexander after a breakout from the handle height from 17 m and pulled to serious injuries to the ankles.
  • When trying, along with Dean Potter to climb the north faces of the Three Peaks in one day ( and return by each base jump to bottom of the wall ) torn tendon in the shoulder.
  • Second attempt to break the record on The Nose, again as part of the filming of the Limit. Again failed because Thomas crashed on record attempt.
  • Speed ​​record on the Nose in 2:45:45 on October 8, 2007. Already four days earlier had the Huber brothers undercut the 2002 drawn up by Hans Florine and Yuji Hirayama record of 2:48:50 by 15 seconds. On 2 July 2008, this record by Hans Florine and Yuji Hirayama was undercut with 2:43:33 and improved on 12 October 2008 at 2:37:05.
  • First ascent of the West Face Silla " El Bastardo " in Patagonia
  • " Three Peaks " in a day: Western pinnacle (Alpine love, IX, Base Jump from the Scoiattolikante ), Large pinnacle ( Phantom of the battlement, IX , base jump from the ring band ), Small pinnacle ( Ötzi meets Yeti, VIII )
  • First ascent of the West Face of Anna Holt, the third highest peak of the Drygalskiberge in Queen Maud Land, Antarctica, together with brother Alexander and Stephan Siegrist
  • Climbing the Ulvetanna, highest peak of Drygalskiberge in Queen Maud Land, Antarctica, in fog and driving snow, together with brother Alexander and Stephan Siegrist
  • First redpoint of " Eternal Flame" (IX / X, UIAA ) on Trango Nameless Tower ( Karakorum ) in the summer of 2009, together with Franz Hinterbrandner, Mario Walder and his brother Alexander.

Quotes

" I am a brutal machine. If I losgehe, I go. "

" My family is the fact that I go to the battle field and Hercules play. "

Awards

  • 2001 Piolet d'Or for the first ascent of the direct north pillar on Shivling (2000)
  • 2008 Bavarian sports award in the category "Ambassadors of the Bavarian Sports"
  • Thomas Huber: Ogre. Summit of dreams. BLV, Munich 2002, ISBN 3-405-16374-9.
  • Alexander Huber, Thomas Huber: The Wall. BLV, Munich 2000, ISBN 3-405-15685-8.

Movies

  • Climbing to the limit. The Huber brothers. Documentary, Germany, 2005, 45 min Written and directed by Malte Roeper, production: Bavarian television, first broadcast September 4, 2005, Summary ( in the web archive ) from the BR, the film received the award > Alpine Camera in Gold < the International mountain and Adventure film Festival Graz
  • To the Limit Documentary, Germany, 2007, 95 min Written and directed by Pepe Danquart, Production: Hager Moss Film, Lotus Film and Quinte Film GmbH
  • The Huber brothers. ZDF - TV report - the first stereo 3D production, the ZDF offers online. Director Jens Monath, October 2011.
  • "Bavarian Direct - Adventure at the end of the world" documentary about the expedition Mount Asgard in Baffin Iceland, 2012 Director: Franz Behind Brander & Max Reichel, Timeline Production

Others

  • Thomas Huber is the lead singer of the rock band Berchtesgaden Plastic Surgery Disaster.
  • In 2010, he is seen in a promotional campaign by Ferrero. He advertises together with his brother Alexander in a TV commercial for the milk - cuts.
  • With the establishment of AtemWeg Foundation - Foundation for research into lung diseases in 2010 supported Thomas Huber, along with other celebrities as ambassadors breathing the Foundation's activities.
To the Limit (2007 film) Yosemite-Nationalpark Karakoram Shivling (Garhwal Himalaya) The Nose (El Capitan) Drygalski Mountains Advertising campaign Integrated Authority File
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