Via ferrata

A via ferrata is an iron ladders, iron pins, staples ( as steps ) and (steel ) ropes assured (insured ) climbing route on natural or artificial rock. Previously rocky passages of trails with steel cables were secured. It developed over time via ferrata, which made ever more difficult routes for non- climbers to walk on. Today, the celebration of climbing climbing has developed into its own alpine discipline.

The water introduced into a via ferrata iron is used on the one hand of locomotion ( additional grips and steps ), on the other hand, the self- assurance with a so-called Via Ferrata. In difficult via ferrata self- assurance can be complemented by a roped Association. Some climbers attempt to climb a route free by not using the material introduced in the riser iron only for backup and for locomotion.

The Italian term for via ferrata is via ferrata (plural: Vie Ferrate ), which literally means iron road and the nature of modern climbing trails just a very good description. The name Via Ferrata is used not only in Italy but also in the German- speaking countries and beyond in some other countries usual.

Emergence of the via ferrata

Ladders and similar devices used for development of paths between mountain villages and pastures were known in the Alps centuries ago. However, these paths were not tourist purposes but were mainly rural roads. They also offered no security options and consisted largely of wooden elements. Nevertheless, such walks can be considered forerunners of today's climbing trails. Some such ways as the " Albinenleitern " in Leukerbad, can be walked today.

The emergence of today's ferrata can be divided into three " epochs ":

• Construction of the first vie ferrate in Europe:

• World War platforms:

• Modern sport climbing trails:

To allow the Velcro Tern in climbing routes in urban areas also via ferrata to homes or silos in recent years created, including the silo tower Brühl.

Components of a via ferrata

The essential component of a climbing route is usually a wire that is anchored in different depending on the terrain intervals in the rock. This rope is similar to a fixed rope, both as an aid to advancement as well as security. Some rope routes (especially in the western Alps ) are also available with two separate cables for the backup and equipped to a halt. In addition, there are also other, usually made ​​of iron aids such as clips, pins, ladders and bridges. Sometimes you can find also artificially chiselled into the rock grips and steps.

Climbing equipment

The UIAA and the DAV- safety circuit recommend to the commission of a via ferrata following ferrata specific equipment (in addition to general equipment for alpine terrain: clothing, shoes, weather protection, provisions, etc.):

• Harness or a combination of the waist belt and chest strap ( There is no special Klettersteiggurt, but using alpine or sport climbing harnesses )
• UIAA - certified helmet climbers
• Via Ferrata UIAA test ( A Stand assurance in the form of a fixed integrated belt loop is not suitable, since these do not necessarily withstand a shock loading of several meters and can cause the lack of dynamic brake to significant injury. )
• Ferrata gloves protect against injuries on the steel cable

A current commercial ferrata UIAA test consists in general of a rope brake and two pieces of rope, each with an ascending carabiner. During a fall, a specially stitched for this purpose tape - a shock absorber - torn or a piece of rope is pulled by a rope brake plate. The approved systems can be designed in different ways and are a dynamic cushion the fall in the registry; on the market there are some variations that are very similar in their case- depressant effects. There are now also systems which are highly moved by the climbers on the steel rope, but be secured against rearward movement itself by a clamp mechanism.

In difficult sport climbing climbing climbing shoes may be necessary as equipment when hardly rock kicks or artificial kicks are available.

In addition, depending on the location and length of the climbing, alpine equipment ( weather protective clothing, gloves, sunglasses, bivy bag, liquid and food etc. ) is necessary.

Evaluation of the difficulty

In the evaluation of climbing routes, one starts from normal conditions. Add route descriptions, the tours are often divided into sections, which have a different level of difficulty. In questionable difficulty, one should consider several sources for help, because there are occasional discrepancies in the assessment. Subjective differences may occur due to body size, condition, daily makeup etc. In addition to the principles which the " via ferrata Pope " Eugene E. Hüsler " Hüsler " scale with verbal classifications ( " little difficult " to " extremely difficult" ) and other, often regionally widespread scale is introduced by the leader writer Kurt sound letters have prevailed (A - e). Besides the pure difficulty, however, other information (eg boarding time, Total time, height difference, etc. ) is important. Here is an overview of the most common international scale:

Terrain: flat to steep, interspersed mostly rocky or rocky, exposed sections possible Fuse: wire ropes, chains, iron brackets (" guitars " ) and occasionally short conductors; Commission largely without the use of safety devices possible Requirements: sure-footedness and freedom recommended office condition ( however depends on the length of the tour from ) Equipment: climbing equipment recommended. Experienced skiers will be here also to be found without self- fuses.

Terrain: steeper rock terrain, partly small steps, with exposed areas is to be expected in any case Fuse: wire ropes, chains, iron clamps, foot bolts, longer ladders (possibly vertical); Commission without securing equipment possible, but difficulties to the 3rd level of difficulty ( UIAA ) are expected to Prerequisites: as in A, but better condition and some strength and endurance in the arms and legs clearly beneficial Equipment: climbing equipment recommended; Commission also possible in the roped Association

Terrain: steep to very steep rocky slopes, mostly small kicks, long or very often exposed sections Backup: Wire Rope, Eisenklampfen, foot bolts, often longer, and even overhanging ladders, staples and pins can also be further apart; in vertical sections sometimes just a wire rope; Inspection without the use of fixed securing devices possible difficulties lie but often in the 4th difficulty ( UIAA ) Requirements: good condition, because longer climbs in this difficulty are already among the great via ferrata company Equipment: climbing equipment such as B is strongly recommended that beginners or children may be to take on a safety rope

Terrain: vertical, often overhanging terrain; usually very exposed Fuse: wire rope, iron clamps and foot bolts ( are often far apart ); in exposed and steep places often only a wire rope Prerequisites: as for C, but good physical condition, have enough strength in the arms and hands, as long vertical to overhanging bodies may occur; smaller climbs (up to the second difficulty) without safety devices are possible Equipment: climbing equipment mandatory, even experienced climbers can be found in the roped Association; not recommended for beginners and children

Terrain: vertical to overhanging; consistently exposed; very little kicks or friction climbing Assurance: as D, but more often combined with climbing Requirements: a lot of power in the hands ( fingers), arms and legs, increased level of fitness, agility, over longer distances can be on the poor the brunt Equipment: climbing equipment mandatory, roped association be worth just on tours with places without securing devices; not recommended for beginners and children

Meanwhile, there are also more extreme climbing routes, their difficulties beyond the established rating scale.

Hazards and risks

Because of the insurance usually made ​​of iron are climbing trails especially dangerous in thunderstorms. The wire ropes in this case act as a lightning rod, which increases the already increased risk of lightning strikes in the mountains in addition. When the weather drops may further icy ropes and no longer provide the necessary friction. If they are buried under snow, they can no longer be used.

Also the rockfall risk is to be observed in climbing routes. Since climbing trails are usually committed by more people than alpine climbing routes in comparable terrain, the risk of relinquishing of stones is particularly high here.

Frequently also the dangers of falling into climbing routes be underestimated. Even with proper application of the Via Ferrata Sets falls can be relatively far, namely to the next anchorage of the wire rope; these are often several meters. The rigid wire rope and its anchorages slow down the body from extremely abrupt. In such a fall higher catch shock forces can occur from falls than when climbing, because they are held by elastic climbing rope. In addition to a significant risk of injury, when the fixed rope brake is not prescribed or used incorrectly, serious and even fatal injuries occur during a fall on the wire rope. Without a dynamic braking system wire fractures, fractures carabiner and rope cracks may occur. Since the fall along the shared by all climbers rope is carried out, even following can be affected. Especially to inexperienced climbers often additional conventional back up is recommended.

After the Austrian Alpine Club one of the main causes of increased significantly in recent years undertaken via ferrata accidents, meanwhile, is not looking to " human factor " in a wrong equipment, but rather when. The reason: " Even the best and technically most sophisticated ferrata is completely useless if you can not handle it ."