Wave shoaling

As shoaling (English spoken [ ʃəʊlɪŋ ​​] ) or shoaling effect is in the Coastal Engineering refers to the simultaneous reduction of the wavelength and increasing the wave height, which can be observed when entering a deep-water wave in a shallow water area of ​​the coast.

Runs a deep-water wave in a shallow water area and touches the shaft the bottom of the water, the wave velocity and therefore the wavelength is decreased. For reasons of energy conservation, the reduced kinetic energy in long energy has to be converted, which is visible by an increased wave height. The shoaling effect takes at abflachendem waters to keep going till the breaking wave.

Mathematical Description

Coining the Shoalings can be described by the ratio of the wave height in shallow water to wave height in deep water area and abbreviated by the shoaling factor. Assuming a constant energy flow, a description of the wave speed in deep water and the group velocity is possible: