Weaving

The weaving is one of the oldest techniques of manufacture of textile fabrics, in which at least two thread systems, the chain ( warp ) and the weft ( weft ), are crossed at right angles. The prestressed warps form the support, in succession, the weft threads are drawn from selvage to selvage through the entire weaving width in the. The product is referred to in the art as fabric, a term which covers both cloth: include ( colloquially "stuff" ) and other products, such as woven carpets or wallpaper.

Description

The technique of weaving differentiated from that of weaving, in that the threads do not cross at right angles to the diagonal rather than in the latter. Related but not identical to the weaving is also the tapestry, in which the weft yarns but not incorporated through the entire weaving width, but only up to the edge of a given color space back and forth worked.

The time required for the tissue manufacturing apparatus is the loom. The original hand loom was in the course of the millennia improved, increasingly automated in the 18th century and finally replaced by the loom in the wake of the industrial revolution. The very largest part of global production is machined today.

History

Weaving heard of wood and stone processing, one of the oldest crafts of mankind and has applied since 32,000 years as demonstrated considerably longer than the pottery. In the grave chambers of Egyptian antiquity tissue residues have been detected by robes.

Gewichtswebstühle were known at least since Neolithic times. In these the warp threads were attached with a Webgewicht on a horizontal bar and left hanging. Some researchers assume that has been woven in the Upper Paleolithic, as Tonabdrücke from Moravian Pavlov to prove. From the wet ground settlements of Switzerland a number of Neolithic textiles has survived, which consist either of flax or wool. In addition, bast fibers was used (of lime, elm and oak). Gewichtswebstühle were used until the Middle Ages. The woven material of the Bronze Age is primarily known for the finds from Danish tree coffins. In Egtved The entries include the first known miniskirt history.

Woven textiles and carpets helped the mercantile Assyrians, Babylonians and later the Phoenicians to their wealth. They could maintain its technological edge in the textile industry in Asia Minor, Persia and Arabia to the 13th century.

The Greeks knew the weaving. In Homer, weaving, spinning and the production of garments seem to be the main occupation of women. According to other traditions competed in the artistic field image weaving seriously with painting. Vase-paintings of the black-figure period show here the use of the weight of the loom.

From the Roman Empire tissue from materials other than wool are known: Egyptian linen and Spanish and Chinese silk.

The Germans used both wool and linen yarns. They wove intricate patterns, as evidenced, for example, the famous Thor mountain jacket.

In the early Middle Ages and the Romanesque period, the oriental weaving art dominated the world market. Sassanian, Byzantine and Saracen silk and wool fabrics were worked with rich ornaments and decorated. From them finery for Emperor, princes, knights and the clergy were produced. Also on Byzantium was the silk to Europe.

In Europe, the weaving began to flourish as an industry. In Augsburg there was a mid-15th century weavers' guild with over 700 members. In many places, such as in Upper Austria, were in communities with a high proportion of weavers, often half of the population, held its own Weber markets. One of the most important centers of traditional linen mill in Württemberg was Laichingen.

Tools

For thousands of years variants of the simple loom with vertical chain ( high loom ) were used worldwide. Only with the invention of the loom with horizontal chain ( flat loom ) in the high Middle Ages, a change in production technology took place. One of the forerunners of the mechanical loom was developed in 1600, common in the so-called ribbon weaving mill band. They made it possible to weave twenty or more bands at the same time on a loom.

Only in the 18th century, the loom was developed significantly. Thus was invented at the time of John Kay of the so-called fast shooter for the automatic movement of the shooter. The first mechanical loom was built in 1784 by the chaplain Edmond Cartwright. Another revolutionary innovation was by the Lyon silk weavers JM Jacquard introduced. In his 1805 -built loom the warp threads can be selectively raised and lowered individually by means of punched cards, which made it possible to weave a large area patterned fabrics. This an unlimited range of patterns compared to the limited binding pattern in the shaft weaving was possible.

The mechanical looms were powered by steam engines on transmissions and sometimes by water wheels. The first electric drive for a mechanical loom was introduced in 1879 by W. von Siemens at Berlin Industrial Exhibition.

Weaving today

The hand weaving is mostly done in the 21st century as arts and crafts, and is also used in occupational therapy, both Tischwebrahmen and looms.

Museums, education and culture

Almost every textile museum displays one or more looms. Also in many local museums, industrial museums and educational institutions are old looms. Some museums specialize in certain web products. So the Textile Museum Mindelheim shows one of the largest publicly available collection of vestments and other ecclesiastical textiles; the house of silk culture in Krefeld presents the topic silk weaving.

  • In State Textile and Industry Museum Augsburg ( tim), visitors can experience fully functional looms. Historic models (from the 1880s ) produce alongside modern high-tech machines of today.
  • In Bocholt ( near Münster, NRW) the Bocholt Textile Museum displays a variety of looms.
  • In the textile mill Müller ( LVR Industrial Museum ) in Euskirchen, among others four heavy looms presented ( by the company Schönherr and Großenhainer ) for wool fabric in operation.
  • The local museum Greiz ( Thuringia) is a ' textile exhibition workshop '.
  • In Haslach at the Muehl in Upper Austria (Upper Austria ) there is a weaving museum, a textile college and the cultural association Textile Kultur Haslach, the festivities during a weaver market next to a textile symposium Webkursen.
  • Hinsbeck (NRW): Textile Museum The barn
  • The Textile Museum of Brennet AG in military Brennet shows, in addition to a remarkable exhibition in the field of weaving, many impressions of the textile industry in Germany in the last century.
  • The mesh Museum presents the history of knitting industry in space Albstadt ( about halfway between Stuttgart and Lake Constance ) from 1750 to today dar. It is in a former building of textile machines Mayer & Cie, ie in an industrial monument.
  • In the Neumünster Tuch Technik is textile museum.
  • In the city of weavers Laichingen in the Swabian Alb is a home and weaving museum with information about the cultivation of flax and flax processing, weaving the handloom and pattern of old world craftsmanship from the tradition of Laichinger linen manufacture.
  • In Havel ( Geltow ) in Berlin is the hand-weaving " Henni Jaensch - Zeymer ". The existing since 1927 workshop production site and museum at the same time. At 200 to 300 years old handlooms can observe the entire manufacturing process, see Active Hand Weaving Museum " Henni Jaensch - Zeymer ".
  • Switzerland: St. Gallen Textile Museum
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