Woven fabric

Tissue is the generic term for manual or machine-made products such as weaving cloth, velvet, velor, plush, terry cloth and other textile fabrics composed of at least two perpendicular or nearly perpendicular verkreuzten thread systems.

The lengthwise yarns are called warp or warp. The transverse threads hot shot or weft threads. Connected the threads through the connection Fadenverkreuzung. Fadenverkreuzung does not mean that threads are crossing each other, but that threads ( called binding ) in a certain rhythm by going above and below the transverse threads. In order for a tissue is sufficiently slip resistant, the warp and weft threads must be woven mostly relatively dense. Therefore, the tissue with few exceptions, also a closed product appearance.

Tissue types and their formation

Depending on the warp threads are raised and lowered during weaving, creating different types of tissue. The resulting fabric appearance with sometimes up, sometimes lying down warp and weft threads is called binding. The number of warp and weft threads, after the repeated bonding is referred to as a repeat.

These compounds not only affect the properties of a fabric ( such as the appearance, drapability or sliding resistance ), it is also possible, by using different yarns (thickness, color, etc. ), tissue produced with colored patterns. Are different colored yarns used, then one speaks of color effects or colored fabric. They include, for example, pinstripe, herringbone, Pepita, Houndstooth and plaid fabric. Here, the color pattern is given by a combination of simple weaves and color sequences in warp and weft.

Fabric having a top and a bottom, which are referred to as right and left side products. If the top and bottom have the same appearance, it is called " gleichbindigem " or " equilateral " tissue, for example in a plain weave.

An important parameter for tissue is the thread count, which is given or counted separately in threads per inch for warp and weft. With many fabrics, the weft density is less than the warp density in order to keep the production time as low as possible.

Depending on the distance and properties ( turned up, baggy etc. ) the filaments may very loose tissue such as dressings, or dense tissue, such as brocade arise. In the longitudinal direction are elastic tissue used as warp rubber threads (more on bands used ), ripple or bulky yarns; they are processed tense and contract at rest. Bulky yarns are made of textured - so ruffled - synthetic fibers. The curl changes the properties of the synthetic fibers. The resulting spun yarns are very resilient, bulky and have a good thermal insulation.

Types of tissues

Most tissues are single-ply tissue with only one warp and one weft thread system. If multiple warp or weft thread systems used, it is called reinforced tissues.

Examples of reinforced fabric:

Double shot (two weft systems, a warp thread )

Kettdouble ( a weft thread system, two warp thread )

Double weave (two warp and two weft systems). Typical double weave are pique, côtelé, Kalmuck and matelasse. Double fabric consisting of two woven fabrics which are woven with one another and connected to one another in various ways. A distinction is made between the following connections:

• Connections: Connection of shot of the lower chain and the top fabric.
• Ligation: Connection of the lower chain and weft of the top fabric.
• Binding weft or binding chain: another thread system connects the two fabric as weft or warp.
• Goods exchange: lower and upper tissue change at the edge of the fabric from one another. In the middle of the double woven fabric, a cavity, hence the term hollow weave.

If instead of the usual so-called healds leno heddles are used, in which the warp threads also embrace, for example, in pairs side, one speaks of leno fabrics. This tissue may form in contrast to the aforementioned open, mesh-like surfaces. Gauze will be used inter alia for curtains or for the gain of carpet backing.

Pile fabric

Pile or pile fabrics, the three-dimensional special form. A third thread system, the polar filament is firmly integrated into the basic fabric of the warp and weft and is perpendicular to the warp or weft. These loops can be cut to create a velor or velvet then.

Typical pile fabric are:

• Real velvets,
• Woven carpets,
• Woven upholstery fabrics with pile ( eg velor, epinglé ).

The manner of introduction of the polar filament is the name the types. When viewed from the side looks the cut pile yarn either like the letter V or W. One speaks of the V-and W - nub. The double -W ​​- nub is a modification of W - nub.

Kettsamtgewebe are fabrics which are usually formed by two superimposed base fabric and an additional Polfadengewebe. In addition, however Rutenwebmaschinen Lancettenwebmaschinen and are used, the form of a so-called additional Polkettfadensystem pile loops which are perpendicular to the base surface of the fabric.

Shot velvet fabric are formed by an additional Polschusssystem. Cord fabric are typical representatives of this type of tissue. First, a tissue with more or less long Schussflottierungen is formed, which are then cut and brushed so that they in turn are perpendicular to the base.

Terry fabrics are another type of tissue. Once again an additional warp thread is raised to pile loops. However, this is done by the combination of binding method ( Ripsbindungen ) with a special beat-up art, for example a batten with so-called proposal function. Binding Technically a group of, for example, three weft yarns is first formed with a distance from the fabric edge, which integrate the pile warp resistant. When you stop this group at the fabric edge these three picks up with the pile end and throw it straight on to the pile loop.

Tissue can be quite narrow bands, such as straps or rubber bands. They are produced on weaving machines are very different from broad looms. Wide fabric range from narrow fabrics that are used in the clothing industry to wide sail fabrics which are woven over the entire width up to 20 meters in one piece.

However, not every tissue is recognizable as such the same. Often fabrics are used as insert, support or reinforcement. Here, for example, glass fibers are woven into mats and installed in plastics as a load- bearing layer, known as FRP materials (fiberglass reinforced plastic), or they are used as carpet backing, which carries the pile. In the fiber composite technology clutches are increasingly being used; while the load-bearing fibers are not woven, but fixed with a stitch each other ( sutured ).

Important characteristics of a textile fabric are:

• Utilized fiber material (specify, for example, as: 50 % cotton, 50 % polyester)
• Basis weight
• Thread density (number of warp and weft yarns per unit length)
• Weave

Tissue types, warenkundliche terms

• Batiste
• Brocade
• Chiffon
• Chintz
• Enoa
• Damask
• Denim
• Ticking ( ticking )
• Fil -a- fil
• Flannel
• Gabardine
• Georgette
• Jersey (substance)
• Crepe ( crepe )

• Loden
• Natté
• Nettle
• Pinpoint
• Pique ( Pique )
• Poplin
• Satin
• Seersucker
• Taffeta
• Cloth
• Tweed
• Vollzwirn
• Walkstoff

See also: other types of textile materials

• (Also called hosiery ) knitted
• Knitwear, knitting

Properties of the tissue

Tissues are anisotropic. That is, the mechanical properties of a tissue will depend on the direction in which acts a force on. When pulled in the warp or in the weft direction stretch fabric, for example, only a little. Does the other hand, diagonal tensile load, eg 45 °, so tissues are very elastic, even if they were woven from non-stretchable yarns.

In addition to this, tissue in tensile tests are often two different rigidities: At the beginning of the waveform which verkreuzenden threads is pulled flat ( lower stiffness ). If the threads are present almost stretched the fabric is stiffer. One then speaks of the substance module.

Tissues are especially hard-wearing and durable with high thread counts. This effect is increased even when threads are used instead of single yarn.