Zufrittspitze

The Zufrittspitze from north

The Zufrittspitze ( Italian name: Gioveretto ) is a 3439 meter high mountain in Zufrittkamm, called in this section also Marteller main ridge, a chain of mountains of the Ortler group in the South Alps. It is situated in the Autonomous Province of South Tyrol Italian. To the north, east, south and west of the tip emits distinct, partially accessible burrs. The mountain appears from the west seen as balanced rock pyramid, because of their easy accessibility of the Grünseehütte ( Rifugio Umberto Canziani, Highest hut) from is committed in the summer often. Through his singular position as the northernmost summit of Marteller main ridge dominates the west and northerly Martello valley. The Zufrittspitze was first climbed on August 9, 1868 by the cartographer and explorer Julius Payer Alps, the mountain guide, Johann Pinggera from Solda ( soldiers ) and two unnamed carrier on the Zufrittjoch and the south ridge.

Environment

North and east of Zufrittspitze Glacier is situated Soyferner ( Vedretta di Soi ), in the west of Zufrittferner ( Vedretta di Gioveretto ) and south-west a small remnant of a once much larger Lorch Ferner ( Vedretta di Lorchen ). Adjacent Mountains are in the course of einbiegenden southwest Südgrats, separated by the situated on 3174 meters above sea level Zufrittjoch that Weissenbrunn peak ( Cima Fontanabianca ) with 3235 meters and farther, beyond the Wegübergangs Weißbrunnerjoch ( Passo Fontanabianca, 3165 m), the Lorcherspitze ( Cima Lorchen ), with a height of 3347 meters. The west ridge of Zufrittspitze falls into Zufritttal, at the lower end of the Zufrittsee is (Lago di Gioveretto, water level of the reservoir at 1850 m). The nearest major settlement is the village of Gand ( Ganda ) at Martell (South Tyrol ) in the Martell valley, a side valley of the Vinschgau Valley, which lies just over six line kilometers to the north. Solda is located about 15 kilometers to the west.

First ascent

The path of the first ascent in 1868 led by the Lower Marteller Alpe, 2061 meters above sea level in the upper Val Martello, from east along the Plimabachs, today Zufrittsee over the Zufritttal and up to Zufrittferner. After reaching the Zufrittjochs you climbed over the south ridge to the summit. The group took about four hours. From the report: Payer had already contracted by drinking milk and rancid bacon a catarrh of the stomach and felt very uncomfortable at the summit. The incessant, more weekly efforts in the state defecter health had not failed of its effect on the strong-willed man, and after genossenem Mahle he had to sit down to avoid fainting ( from Eduard Richter, The development of the Eastern Alps ). With the Zufrittspitze Payer completed the mountaineering exploration and mapping of the Ortler Alps and turned away from the North Pole in 1869 to study.

Bases and routes

Today's normal route to the Zufrittspitze follows the First Increase in principle. As a base, however, now serves the easternmost Grünseehütte, located on the northeastern shore of Green Lake at 2561 meters altitude. The route runs north up past the lake to the southwest. In easy climbing in difficulty UIAA I- II of the summit can be reached in three to four hours. Other trails lead since 1922 by the west wall, on the northern ridges and as high tour from the north via the Soyferner. Ski tourers reach the Zufrittspitze over the top Zufrittferner in the spring.

Sources and maps

  • Peter Holl: Alpine Club leaders Ortler Alps, 9th edition, Munich 2003, ISBN 3-7633-1313-3
  • Eduard Richter (Editor): The development of the Eastern Alps, Volume II, published by the German and Austrian Alpine Club, Berlin, 1894
  • Casa Editrice Tabacco, Udine: Carta topografica 1:25,000, Sheet 045, Laces / Laces, Val Martello / Martell, Silandro / Schlanders
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