Masherbrum

The Masherbrum from the Baltoro Glacier

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The 7821 meter high Masherbrum is the seventh highest mountain in the Karakoram and is located in Gilgit- Baltistan, a special territory in northern Pakistan.

Location

It rises between Baltistan in the south and the Baltoro Glacier in the north and is still before the Chogolisa highest peak in the ridge south of the Baltorogletschers, the Masherbrum mountains that belong to the so-called small Karakorum. From its south-west wall of the Masherbrum Glacier flows south to Hushe Valley. The southeast side of the mountain drained by the Gondogoro Glacier, east begins at Gondogoro Pass and also flows to Hushe Valley. West, northwest and northeast wall dine Liligo, Mandu and Yermanendu Glacier, flowing north to the Baltoro glacier.

Name

This striking mountain was discovered by TG Montgomerie, a member of the British Royal Engineers, in 1856 and he gave him the name K1 (significantly the peak 1, namely as seen from west to east, the first of a series of very high mountains in the Karakoram ). The locals call the mountain Masherbrum. This name is most likely composed of the morphemes mashadar ( muzzleloader ) and brum ( mountain). ( Omission of the syllables in compound words is common in the Baltisprache. ) The name refers to the similarity of the mountain with an old rifle.

Routes to the summit

Probably the easiest, though not easy route leads over the ridge, which is reached by the current flowing to the south Masherbrumgletscher. Access is not from from Baltorogletscher, but from the south via the Hushe valley, into which one passes from the Shyok near its confluence with the Indus. The first ascent was made in 1960 by an American- Pakistani expedition. On July 6, 1960, George Irving Bell ( 1926-2000 ) and Willi Unsoeld successfully. On July 8, 1960 Jawed Akhter and Nick Clinch also reached the summit.

The 7806 meter high peak Southwest in 1981 was the target of a Polish expedition. Andrzej Heinrich, Marek Nowacki Przemyslaw Malatynski and then reached the highest unclimbed peaks of the Karakoram on September 17. During the descent Malatynski and Nowacki froze to death in the night Notbiwak on the southwest ridge. Henry survived because he was the only bivouacked on the leeward side of the ridge. In further down he fell and fell about 200 to 300 meters deep without seriously hurting and safely reached the base camp.

In 1985, at the third and fourth ascent of the mountain first climbed routes on the north side of the mountain: the difficult north face was first climbed by Japanese climbers headed by Shin Kashu. The route led from Yermanendu Glacier on the north ridge, due to avalanche danger later became the northwest ridge and traversed it in the north-west wall. All 10 climbers reach the summit on 23 July 1985. An Austrian expedition under Robert Renzler opened almost simultaneously another route in the 3600 -meter-high north-west wall. The starting point was the Mandu Glacier. The route offers rock climbing up in the VI. Degrees. Michi Larcher, Andreas Orgler and Robert Renzler reached on July 24, 22 hours after the Japanese to the summit. A British expedition, however, failed for the ascent of Ostgrats from Yermanendu Glacier.