Albert F. Mummery
Albert Frederick Mummery ( born September 10, 1855 in Dover, England; probably † August 24, 1895 on Nanga Parbat ) was an English mountaineer.
Albert Mummery go alone and first ascents in difficulty, who were in his time as insurmountable. At age 19, he repeated Whymper route on the Matterhorn. In 1879 he was back in Zermatt and climbed the mountain guide Alexander Burgener on the Zmuttgrat the Matterhorn. Even after this first ascent him membership in the prestigious Alpine Club was not granted.
On August 5, 1881, he boarded with guides Alexander Burgener and Benedict Venetz first time the Aiguille du Grépon. The key point of the increase was later named Mummery crack.
In 1883 he married. His wife Mary accompanied him at times in the mountains.
1888 succeeded Mummery and his companions made the first ascent of Dychtau in the Caucasus. This year he was a member of the Alpine Club and presented reflections on the leaderless mountaineering on. In subsequent years, he repeated numerous mountain tours - even some of his first ascents - without a mountain guide (including the first ascent of the leaderless Brenvaflanke of Mont Blanc).
In June 1895 Albert Mummery broke up with Geoffrey Hastings and Norman Collie direction Nanga Parbat. The first attempt to reach the summit, took place via the Rupaltal and the southern flank. The three climbers realized that a commission of this wall was not possible. They crossed the Mazenopass in the Diamirtal and tried to find a possible ascent. On August 24, 1895 Mummery tried with two Gurkhas ( Ragobir and Goman Singh ), a high-altitude transition to Rakhiotgletscher and next to go towards Nanga Parbat - they were then never seen again. They are considered the first victim on Nanga Parbat.
A special feature is to be noted that Albert Mummery undertook hardly mountain tours in England.
Works
- My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus. Unwin and others, London ua 1895 (in German language: .. My ascents in the Alps and the Caucasus ( = Alpine Classics Vol 9) edition, introduced, annotated and supplemented by bio-bibliographical data of Martin Lutter Johann Bruckmann, Munich 1988. ISBN 3-7654-2159-6 ) ( in English available online at archive.org ).