Alexander Burgener

Alexander Burgener ( born January 10, 1845 in Saas -Fee, Valais Canton, † July 8, 1910 at the monk in the Bernese Oberland ) was a mountain guide pioneer, the first to climb several peaks and first to climb new routes in the Alps and the Caucasus. He was also named king of the mountain guide.

Youth

Alexander Burgener grew up in modest circumstances in the hamlet Huteggen the community Eisten VS at the Saas Valley. He spent his youth as Geisshirt and Gämsjäger on Balfrin. At 20 he made ​​his first tour as a mountain guide. The emerging tourism brought especially daring Englishman in the Alps. Even the famous English mountaineer and author Albert Mummery was one of his customers.

First ascents

About 50 first ascents and first ascents in the Alps and in the Caucasus, Alexander Burgener made ​​, including the Lenzspitze (1870 ), the Aiguille du Dru in the Mont Blanc massif (1878), the Gestola in the Caucasus ( 4860M, 1886), the Zmuttgrat on the Matterhorn (1879 ) and the Täschhorn - Teufelsgrat (1887 ). In 1899 he ascended the eastern summit of Piz Palüs first time on the North west pillar. There is hardly a well-known mountain of the Western Alps, which he had not climbed, this came expeditions in the Caucasus. Alexander Burgener was one of the most famous mountain guide of the Belle Époque.

Tragic end

On July 8, 1910 Alexander Burgener was captured and killed on Berglifelsen the monk by an avalanche; in the accident seven climbers are killed, including Adolf Burgener, the son of Alexander. His grave is located in Eisten.