Batura Sar

The Batura wall with the Batura I ( seemingly the right of the higher peaks in the center ) on the Batura Glacier

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Batura Sar, Batura I, Batura East or Peak 32 is the 25th highest mountain on Earth and the highest peak in the Batura Muztagh, the westernmost of the Karakoram mountain range.

Location

It is located almost in the center of the Batura Muztagh in the autonomous region of Gilgit- Baltistan in Pakistan.

Topography

His fame among climbers it owes its 10 km long and 7,000 m high slope, the Batura wall, and the fact that there is no higher mountain in the world north and west of it. He also has no real peak, but a long summit ridge, whose highest point is at 7,795 m. Overall, the main ridge of the Batura Muztagh below for a length of about 85 km rarely the 6,000 -meter mark.

In addition to summit

  • Batura II, also known as Hunza Kunji or 31 peak ( 7762 m ) Vertical separation: 230 m
  • Batura III ( 7729 m)
  • Batura IV ( 7600 m)
  • Muchu Chhish ( 7453 m), after Gangkhar Puensum whose ascent is prohibited, the second highest unclimbed peak on earth.

Climbing history

The first registered climbers in the area was Matthias Rebitsch, in the Eisfallgebiet on the north side of the summit was on the road in 1954, but no attempt undertook to reach the top. The first ascent attempt dare 1959 consisting of three British and two German roped. All five were probably on the way down in an avalanche killed. It is not certain whether they reached the summit.

The first ascent of the summit was successful in 1976, headed by Alexander Schlee Göppinger Karakoram Himalaya Expedition. They set up on May 21, the base camp on the Baltar glacier below the south flank of the mountain. Starting from the camp reached Hubert Bleicher and Herbert Oberhofer the summit on June 30. The path led from Baltar East Glacier on the Batokshi - tip ( by the first expedition " Saddel peak " called ) for Batokshi Pass ( " Batura Saddle "). Then they climbed diagonally to the east ridge and then the summit. During their ascent they used five high camp. The second ascent led in 1983 by an Austrian group that it chose a new, left hand path of the first. Jill Neate contradicts in her book High Asia the representation of the Himalayan Index, after which there was a further rise in 1984. The last time being in 1988 to rise by one led by Piotr Młotecki Polish- German expedition. The Poland Zygmunt Heinrich - he was one of the Erstbesteigern of Kunyang Chhish 1971 - and Paweł Kubalski and German Volker Stallbohm reached the summit on July 13. However, the expedition failed on their second goal to reach the secondary summit Batura I West.

The Himalayan Index lists five other unsuccessful attempts to reach the summit, including an Austrian winter attempt.

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